2009 March 12
Hannah MacGibbon's second collection for Chloé restored faith. It's no secret the house has been floundering to recapture the lovers (and buyers) of carefree chic that lived and breathed for Phoebe Philo, and MacGibbon smartly returned to that aesthetic with an on-trend nod to the eighties--easy, boxy daywear, that is, versus the micromini rock stuff of evening. Her collection began with blanket coats and high-waisted fluid trousers in shades of camel, moss, khacki and grey. Then entered the suede, in shorts and even a jumpsuit worn on Lily Donaldson. At last, the sweet blouses are back, most memorably in a grey flannel with a tacked-on ruffle tracing a square neckline. It's the little things like wool knit shorts that will remind the distracted devotee exactly why she must revisit that store on Madison Avenue, and once she's there, she'll have a tough time leaving without one of the pleated cream silk frocks--the most welcome takes on evening dressing we've seen all season. The most showstopping piece was, appropriately, the last look--a floor-dusting peach take on that gown, with a loose, open back. We know what the front row will be wearing next season--let's hope the house is taking personal orders.
A Turkish ice princess may or may not exist in the traditional sense, but John Galliano dreamed up the concept and used it as a starting point for a Fall collection so wondrous and just plain fun that perhaps he should consider ending the week officially next season. A laser light effect made the models appear to walk through a tunnel as smoke and snow made of bubbles fell overhead. The traditional costumes ranged from wide-hipped wool coats laden with embroidery to bedazzled peasant blouses and skirts laden with all the trimmings. Silver Indian beads and pendants were strewn about gloriously, with several models wearing Galliano-esque headdresses. But it was the last story of diaphanous silk dresses that proved most enchanting--remember the cerulean number from last season that ended up (avec slip) on Freida Pinto at the Oscars?
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