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2009 March 6

Runway Reviews

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Balmain Fall 2009 Balmain Fall 2009
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(PARIS) Balmain
Nobody does disco like Decarnin, and the assault of Christophe-isms seen everywhere in Milan proved how far his reach has spread. For Fall 2009, he offered more of the same rock-chic must-haves, although overall the looks leaned more towards the late '70s than early '80s. Micromini tube dresses in chain-anchored leather or sequins earned attitude with a flounce of ruffle across one shoulder or a fabric flourish around the hem. The token Balmain shoulder abounded, although the acid-wash jean was replaced with a sleeker black style. Granted, the pricing is akin to couture, but if it's flying out of Bergdorf, well, Decarnin is doing something right.

Nina Ricci
Olivier Theyskens' brand of impressionism isn't easily forgettable, and in what is widely believed to be his final collection for Nina Ricci, he made his case. This is unparalleled creativity that refuses to fret over bottom-line mentality, and it showed. (One well-informed insider estimated the sample collection to have cost upwards of a million Euros.) From the first glimpse at those hoof-like platforms, the models glided by like Tim Burton characters dressed marvelously in clothing unlike anything else out there. The evening gowns showcased Theyskens' genius most brilliantly, with whorls and boning and endless drama fit for a dark, dark queen. Whatever happens next, the fashion world can't stop watching.




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