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2009 February 27

Runway Reviews

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Missoni Fall 2009 Missoni Fall 2009
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(MILAN) Missoni
"It was very optimistic," said Angela Missoni of her Fall 2009 collection, shown in a basement event space off of Piazza Cavour. True to form, the Missoni aesthetic was omnipresent, infusing everything from the (branded) water bottles that hydrated guests to the sleek little notebooks left on every seat. Naturally, the looks were knit-focused, and consisted mostly of layer upon layer of dresses, cardigans, camisoles, tweed jackets, and of course, scarves. (To underscore the message, a video of a working loom served as a runway backdrop.) Floor-length and often shown two at a time, chunky neckwear accompanied nearly every look, confirming the fact that while these outfits appeared quite busy indeed, they really represented an amalgamation of building blocks for a woman's wardrobe. The palette was equally inspired--blush, peach, gold lame, cerulean, and various shades of grey. Happily, each look incorporated various hues (and various textures) to achieve a piled-on vibe--an Italian Ali McGraw, say, on an off-season jaunt to Capri. Knit legwarmers--trend alert!--are bound to fly off shelves should they go into production, while cardigan scarves (often avec hood) and boxy toppers with fox detail will satisfy the brand's regulars. Groovy, baby.

Just Cavalli
Granted, it was only twenty looks, but ça suffit when it comes to Just Cavalli, a line fraught with so many accessories and other add-ons that the presentation format allows a greatly-appreciated closer look. In fact, editors had trouble negotiating the throng of well-wishers and general admirers crowded into Cavalli's second-floor showroom on Via Sentao. The look? Rocker, bien sûr, beginning with motorcross jackets, acid-wash blazers, and agressively-shredded denim. Add a shearling vest, a slouchy cap and a gold pointed-toe stiletto and you're guaranteed entry into the Cavalli club. Although there remains uncertaintly whether these clothes will, in fact, be produced, they should be—after all, Just Cavalli operates so many freestanding boutiques that anything less will result in a storming of the gates.

Emporio Armani
Girls will be girls, at least this season. Kneesocks aside, Mr. Armani offered up a young, playful coterie of femme separates that can't help but appeal to those looking for a respite from his more menswear-focused seasons. Kicky little dresses, graced with loose ruffles here and there, beautifully complimented a stellar line of equally gussied-up coats, most memorably the series of mid-length loden and black toppers that drew the show's first round of applause. Despite the 58 exits, most featuring two models à la fois, each felt like a fresh variation on this season's theme. Was it only last week that the designer toasted his new Armani/ 5th Avenue store? Come Fall, there will be even more reasons to drop in.

C'N'C Costume National
Ennio Capasa is feeling optimistic. His C'N'C Costume National collection was unusually bright, full of cerulean, orange, gold, red and fuschia. The shapes were swingy and modern, even though the nipped-waist swing skirts and suede jackets recalled the best days of the 1980s. As usual, there was a touch of deconstruction, namely in one slouchy grey sweater with a nearly unravelled sleeve. A few terrific jackets, most memorably in lipstick red, will be coveted staples next season, while a saturated sky blue frock with a draped bodice and pleated skirt is bound for retail (and editorial) success.

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