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2009 February 24

Runway Reviews

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Paul Smith Women Fall 2009 Paul Smith Women Fall 2009
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(LONDON) Paul Smith
Paul Smith presented his Fall 2009 collection to an intimate crowd in The Claridges ballroom. The head-to-toe khaki ensembles (with bursts of fuchsia) seemed like a designer homage to Shelley Long's re-designed girl scout leader outfits in Troop Beverly Hills, while the structured jackets and embellished and fringed epaulettes that adorned everything from sweaters to dresses (often asymmetrically) gave the collection a military feel. For a more feminine sensibility, there were floral prints (in muted autumnal tones of dusky pink, taupe and green). We loved the thigh-high woolen knee socks and matching arm warmers.

Daniella Helayel's Fall 2009 collection, Sexy Monk, offered up the designer's signature mix of feminine sex appeal in the form of draped jersey dresses in a variety of monochromatic and tri-colored combinations. Accessorized with Erickson Beamon jewels (sparkling cocktail rings, feather brooches, necklaces that descend to mid-thigh) and Charlotte Olympia heels, the floor-length dresses in bold colors (orange, lipstick pink, marine blue) felt very South of France. Cooked cashmere clutches, "pet bags," completed the look. Front-rowers included Daphne Guinness, Peaches Geldof and Daisy Lowe, who remarked afterwards, "I thought it was great. Colors and sparkles and really good shoes."

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