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2009 February 23

Runway Reviews

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(LONDON) Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony
"The original inspiration for this collection was actually 'gay lumberjack,'" laughed Chloe Sevigny Sunday morning at The Double Club, where she was presenting her menswear line for Opening Ceremony. "There's a real outdoorsy thing happening in Manhattan where all of these guys are dressed in a way that looks like they're going camping but they're really going to Lit." The collection is based on the premise of men's clothing that is sized down for women (there are seven sizes available, starting with XXS) so that it can be worn either fitted or slouchy, inspired by Connecticut preppy-meets-counter-cultural side of suburbia. "I used to always shop in the boys department at Brooks Brothers," explained Sevigny of the impetus behind offering men's wares to women. "I love the cut of the little blazers and it also tends to be less expensive." The collection includes reworked Fair Isle sweaters (inspired by classic Ralph),  fisherman sweaters with oversized collars (inspired by Sevigny's father who was a sailor), colored cords, jungle print mohair sweaters, jackets with backpacks in matching colors and materials (complete with super cute clear plastic pockets for cigarettes or cell phones) and a fantastic selection of footwear done in collaboration with Bass and including dual-colored penny loafers, hiking boots and bondage-strapped leather wedges. "Men generally have a few pairs of pants and that's all they wear. They tend to buy more tops so that's why I've created a few classic pairs of pants. And pockets are really important -- almost everything has a pocket," explained Sevigny.

Eley Kishimoto
It may not have been the Oscars, but the whiff of Slumdog Millionaire was in the London air as Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto transported the audience to Southeast Asia for their Fall 2009 collection, Jet Set Masala. Flight attendants came out in bright blues and reds, as well as the duo's signature whimsical prints, accessorized with gold "wings" pins and necklaces, bright gold button detailing, neck scarves and cute hats. The looks had more of an Eastern flavor as the collection progressed with orange, brown, purple and yellow-printed dresses, tops and skirts paired with skinny multicolored bangles stacked on wrists and patterned tights. A Bengal tiger even appeared as the focal point of a sweater and also as a trim on dresses. The vivid, colorful collection was not only playful but also extremely evocative, pushing the bounds of prints.

PPQ
The packed Burlington Arcade provided the setting for Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker's PPQ show Sunday evening, Proletariat Chic. The theme even extended to the seating, which consisted of two long non-hierarchical rows of guests. As always, London's famous bright young things, including Daisy Lowe, Alice Dellal and Pixie Geldof, marched in the show while Alexa Chung and Girls Aloud's Nicola Roberts looked on (PPQ are designing the girls band's newest tour costumes). The collection was a melange of patchwork prints, ruffles, rainbow colors, sequin, ribbon and pom-pom trimmings on cocktail dresses, appliqued coats and bustiers and fabulous platform sandals with multicolored rainbow straps. As always, the collection was feminine and playful, perfect for the capital's It girls.




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