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2009 February 20

Runway Reviews

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Calvin Klein Womenswear Fall 2009 Calvin Klein Womenswear Fall 2009
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(NEW YORK) Calvin Klein
Francisco Costa deflated his silhouettes from spring and focused instead on sharp tailoring and textural geometry, evident in the puzzle panel pencil skirts and puzzle flap coats. The mostly monochromatic looks epitomized the powerful minimalism of Costa's vision for the iconic brand. The plisse detail dresses were a gorgeous surprise towards the end of the show and will undoubtedly be a hit with Costa's Hollywood darlings. The sulphite and juniper laser-cut dresses added the perfect jolt of color, finishing the show on a very high note. Brava!

Naeem Khan
Naeem Khan opted to show his Fall collection with a presentation for the first time in several seasons, which allowed his devoted following to admire the breathtaking handiwork even more closely. Khan unveiled approximately 20 looks at his soaring Garment District loft with  two separate tableaus. The first group presented a nod to Indian opulence, offering up fur-trimmed brocade coats and embroidered velvet dresses that take the notion of luxury, well, up a notch. The second group of heartstopping evening gowns reminded more than one seasoned editor of why women near and far are lining up to pay handsomely for such unusual, memorable pieces. A crystal-heavy column appeared to have been born on the red carpet--nay, the stage itself--while a pale pink tiered gown will surely dominate A-list events around the globe. Khan worships his customer, and judging by the socialite-studded cocktail party that followed his presentation, the feeling is mutual.

Ports 1961
Tia Cibani often relies on live music to give her show an extra dash of panache, and this season, the tunes set the mood for a nostalgic trip to India's Mughal dynasty. The more streamlined looks were most successful: a ruby angarkha coat dress and an azalea silk sari dress attested to India's own take on luxury. Expect big sales at the brand's new flagship in the Meatpacking District.

Libertine
On the seventh floor of a loft building in SoHo, the Libertine presentation was a lively celebration that mimicked the party-people screen prints that could be seen on some of the party dresses. Wool floral embellishments and hand painting were the signature touches that have come to represent a brand that represents a persistent optimism among fashion’s outliers.

Rebecca Taylor
"I just wanted to send out girls that were hip, downtown, and cool," said Rebecca Taylor of her fall effort. "I  hoped that people in audience looked at them and wanted to be like them." The collection was sure to satisfy her faithful fan club. Taylor's models resembled heroines of the LES and Brooklyn, parading confidently in warm furry vests, beautiful lilac numbers, and well-constructed jackets. The showing provided a great array of investment separates, good enough to for next season and a few to come. 




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