Chanel

(PARIS) Karl Lagerfeld's Fall/Winter 2010 couture collection offered a toned-down execution of his formidable creative prowess. The focus was firmly on daywear-those tweedy suits that the house has owned since its inception. The seasonal riff was a new proportion-miniskirt in front, long panel in the back. The "tails," as they were immediately dubbed by onlookers, threatened to distract from the otherwise perfect suiting, but they worked much  better when diaphanous, as in the evening gowns. In that category, this season broke from classics with some kicky sixties-style shifts with much embellishment. As the sun set over the Grand Palais, series of pleated chiffon asymmetrical dresses in charcoal and chocolate kept the energy hot, and when Skye Stracke hit the lacquered runway in a sleeved black and silver molded frock-her legs all tangled up in embellished tulle-the show began to end much too soon. Luckily, Lagerfeld's single bridal look (Lara Stone in a ruffled mini, accompanied by Baptiste Giabiconi) gave the masses an entirely new reason to obsess.