Happy Birthday, Gucci!

House celebrates 85th with John Legend
Friday, September 29, 2006
(MILAN) With the dinner Vanity Fair's Elizabeth Saltzman and Michael Roberts hosted for Edward Menicheschi in full swing across town, another dashing duo-namely, Gucci CEO Mark Lee and creative director Frida Giannini-celebrated the Italian luxury goods house's 85th anniversary with a civilized soirée boasting a live 40-minute performance by John Legend. "He's an incredible musician in an era where incredible musicians are hard to find," said Robin Givhan. "He doesn't rap; he sits at a piano and writes his own music."

A similar appreciation for fine details was evident in Gucci's approach to this memorable event. Walls of topiary, along with a nearly transparent frame, flanked the entrance to the palazzo where the party was held. As guests made their way past a life-size "Gucci by Gucci" logo, they were greeted by large projection screens that rotated images of the company's most iconic and legendary moments. Gucci also introduced a touch computer-screen that showcased the pages of its new Gucci by Gucci anniversary coffee table book.

While sleek, mirrored bars skillfully kept all drink paraphernalia out of sight, wait staff outfitted in turtleneck sweaters and black slacks served champagne to guests, which included François-Henri Pinault Jr., Robert Polet and his wife, Camilla Belle, Hal Rubenstein, Anne Christensen and Stefano Tonchi, Suzy Menkes, Virginie Mouzat, Neiman Marcus' Karen Katz, Isabel Dupré, Hidetoshi Nakata, and two powerhouse CEOs who don't usually make a habit of staying at parties until the midnight hour: Bergdorf Goodman's Jim Gold and Neiman Marcus' Burt Tansky. "I just flew in on Alitalia this morning, and they still have ashtrays on board that they never got around to removing," laughed Cindi Leive. "It's always an experience flying Alitalia. I had two Italian men arguing loudly behind me during the flight."

No doubt Legend's soulful ballads helped ease the Glamour editor's nerves. "Good evening. Buona sera. John Legend is my name," the singer said into the mic. "Thank you, Gucci by Gucci." Fashion types turned out in droves to hear Legend perform a few tracks off his upcoming sophomore album, Once Again, with his guitarist and two Gucci-clad backup singers. Booth Moore camped out on the carpeted floor after all the grey velvet cushioned bench seats were taken, while Allure's Michael Carl and Harper's Bazaar's Anamaria Pimentel playfully dirty danced. Naturally, the festivities lasted later than the midnight call time, spilling over into a dance party, where Belle gushed in awe over the experience.

"How can you not?" she said of taking pictures of Legend with her digital camera. "He has such a beautiful voice. It's the only way I know how to capture it. I already own his CD." Style.com's Sarah Mower, who penned the words to the hefty book, recalled her nine-month editing experience. "They have an archive on the outskirts of Milan where there is a cache of the most pristine and untouched Gucci bags from all the decades," she said. "It was like having a key to a real treasure chest. Frida's uncle was some sort of movie gossip columnist for a magazine in Rome, and he wrote that cafés in the streets were like catwalks-with everyone in Gucci. It was a great post-war moment for the city." While Giannini admittedly has already made an indelible impression on the house, she only recently took full creative control; it was apparent, according to Mower, that it was Tom Ford who really made Gucci a legitimate fashion house. Despite all the kind words about the house's history, Mower proved she was not to be swayed concerning her personal style choices, choosing to toast the night in a simple black gown by Martin Margiela.
 
Perhaps Robert Polet put it best, however. "The fact that we're 85 years of age and young and relevant and contemporary is no small feat," the Gucci Group chairman said. "Past and present, this brand has reinvented itself, but is as young and relevant today as it was 85 years ago. When I'm 85 I still hope to be part of a team achieving things possible." Retirement, in fact, was the furthest thing from his mind. "I'll retire when I'm 98," he laughed. "That's a good number."
JIM SHI