Runway Reviews

(PARIS) Sonia Rykiel
As Sasha led the top models at Sonia Rykiel down the runway in a rousing dance party to "Don't Stop Till You Get Enough," it was more clear than ever that these designers knows how to have a good time--and look pretty great while doing so. The usual elements were in place--stripey knits, high-waisted trousers, chiffon day dresses, even a PVC raincoat--but in the midst of all this recessionary restraint, Rykiel feels more fresh than ever. The crowd was exhilarated, including the fans with their noses pressed to the glass of Rykiel's boutique on Avenue Saint-Germain. This designer has joie de vivre, and this season, she has our gratitude.

Lanvin
In a word: wow. Alber Elbaz always offers up one of the best shows in Paris, but his exceptional Spring 2010 collection left the uproariously-applauding crowd in the throes of ecstasy. The clothes began on a classic note--a few ruffled black frocks--before evolving into a fanciful parade of fuscia, crimson, carnation, draped and dressed-up more splendidly than ever. The nude separates were rendered in the sexiest shades possible, especially in a deep-v loose pantsuit worn by Romana and a long-sleeved draped dress on Sasha. And the gold beaded dresses (or even pants!) are just the kind that you'll splurge for in February and repeat helplessly for every occasion that demands them until circa 2045. Every look showcased Elbaz's intellectual rigor, which appears to become sharper by the minute. Does this designer have any real limits? And Wertheimers, are you watching?

Viktor & Rolf
Technically laudable, Victor & Rolf's Spring 2010 once again showed what wonder these designers can work with a lot of tulle and just as much imagination. The most memorable concept was literally taking a bite out of fashion-creating gaping holes or panels in the skirts of ballgowns and then stiffly layering up the fabrics inside. It was as if the gowns were simultaneoulsly solid objects and regular old clothes that move on command. Expect the editors to fight for samples. But there were more commercial options as well, namely trim jackets paired with billowing silk pants in dove grey and pale peach.

Akris
Especially on a bright Sunday morning, this collection was a palate-cleanser. Albert Kriemler has emerged as one of Paris' most consistent designers, hell-bent on the kind of sportswear and separates that women always seem to need. His clever scissor work, seen for Spring in a series of a trapezoid laser-cut leather appliqué dresses, skirts and jackets, continues to elevate this brand into one of Paris' big guns. Painstakingly-chosen fabrics like double-face wool, jersey and silk georgette, give Kriemler's work an ease all its own. Most revelatory this season? The featherweight gowns, drop-waisted in jersey and georgette and dramatized with draped backs and folded lapels. A covered-up jersey number with an open back on Karlie drove home just how desirable Kriemler can be. No wonder the brand is launching a handbag collection for Spring.

Costume National
It seems like everyone is doing the glamorous rock-n-roll look these days, but remember--this is Ennio Capasa's territory, and when it comes to designers who combine that spirit with supreme luxury, he has no competition. The best shrunken leather jacket of the season, in a caramel shade tinged with smoke? Check. The shredded lamé halter gowns (both short and long) that make evening look young and sexy again? He has that, too. Not to mention the accessories, most memorably a sandal-boot hybrid with plenty of sass. The chiffon moves just as beautifully as a pieced-together raw silk jacket. In clothes like these, it's pretty tough to look anything but great.