Runway Reviews

(NEW YORK) Karen Walker

Karen Walker put a twist on tradition for her Spring 2009 line, shown on Saturday at the Altman building. Button-up shirts, blazers, and shorts abounded, but blazers were blatantly oversized, button-ups were pleated at the hems, and shorts were full, even pajama-esque. There was hardly a classic spring floral, but instead spider web and wicker prints; even a leopard print was abstract, cartoonish, and apricot or mint colored.

True, the charm was in the quirks - the oversized, almost anti-sexy dresses, the white Keds with a black cap-toe messily painted on, and Walker's eyewear collection, an array of colored and clear lenses and frames in bold shapes - but the collection would have been stronger had there been a clearer direction.

Charlotte Ronson

Charlotte Ronson's first showing in Bryant Park turned into a literal sh*tshow. Lindsay Lohan and Samantha Ronson tried to sit down, but they had to go backstage because the paparazzi were just too intense; they came back twenty minutes later to an even larger hoard of paparazzi. Press badges were being swiped from photographers, and guests were going nuts: the collection started with applause and screams before a single model even walked down the runway. Charlotte showed a lot of denim looks paired with girly, flowery pieces, and the majority of the outfits were paired with sheer mid-calf socks and her famous wedge shoes. Her inspiration: "Music, concerts, I was discovering my style in fashion growing up in the 80s and early 90s," Ronson said. "It's about going to your favorite shows, and what you would wear." Lindsay was in a look from the new collection.

Andy & Debb

Andy and Debb put the icing on the cake with a Spring 2009 collection that was consistent and divine. Korean designers Seokwon Andy Kim and Wonjeong Debbie Yoon, who met as Pratt students, were inspired by sweetness this season and it showed. "We played with drapery and texture and at the same time found ourselves baking cupcakes for our children; they love decorating cupcakes as an art project and we have been noticing how great the swirls looks, so we brought it into our designs," said Yoon. Milky pastels dominated with cherry, banana, kiwi, mint, chocolate and vanilla comprising the collection.

Bubble hems, organza frosting-like folds and pleats, creamy colors, beaded sprinkles and fluff and puff enhanced the dessert. "The collection has a 40s-50s feeling to it with a couture sensibility," said Anne Christensen, who styled the show. "It feels almost like Balenciaga from the 50s and 60s with that fuller back and draping detailing. Their craftsmanship is impeccable." The energy was so high that a model lost the heel to her shoe and walked the entire runway on her tip toes in perfect form - without missing a step. And what a treat it was!

Abaeté

Laura Poretzky continues to fuse femininity and prep in a delightful way. Inspired by the dichotomy of a women's logic - the things you do for reason and the things you do from the heart - Poretzky delivered the perfect impulsive jaunt. To add to the escape, colors were derived from the flowing spirit of summers spent in the South of France with tranquil blues, pink sunsets and yellow sunrise. Using boning as a design element and structural corset details, looks struck a balance between frilly and constructed. Bows served to convey a sense of innocence, best seen in a sexy one shoulder swim suit. This season the Abaeté girl has the same taste and sophistication as always, she's just gotten a little more daring.

Adam Lippes

Inspired by MoMA's Color Chart exhibit, Adam Lippes took several pieces of art and translated them to the runway. In particular, a Damien Hirst dot painting was washed of its color and made into the print for a white hand-screened polka dot linen dress. The collection seemed disparate and unconnected, but two particular pieces stood out: a kaleidoscope embroidered dress, and another in yellow with what looked like plastic pieces that gave the effect of shattered glass.