Runway Review

(PARIS) "We are never very far from the Renaissance," Christian Lacroix laughed backstage before Tuesday's couture show at the Centre Georges Pompidou. But this collection took pomp and circumstance so much less than seriously that there was nary a stiff-laced maiden in sight. There's something specifically breathtaking about Lacroix on the runway--the months of embroidery, the miles of beadwork, the acres of lace. The cumulative effect of all this magnificent excess is that even the most jaded observer forgets that these are clothes. They just have too much heart to be, technically, inanimate. And we thought it couldn't get any better than last season! "My woman is very strong, very aggressive. A little wild, but in a sweet way," explained the designer. Case in point? A short frock in a "makeup" shade of crepe, endowed with a pleated taffeta overskirt with lace edging, worn by Tanya D. There were plenty of satin confections for rollicking party girls, but a series of sinister looks--a boned, black faille jacket and lace cape dress, in particular--offered a critical counterpoint. The show ended with Vlada in a wedding dress, her arms ensconced in tulle and knotted with pink faille. A veil of several meters followed her down the runway-until Lacroix, taking his final bow, caught up with her. May we kiss the groom?