Runway Reviews

(PARIS) ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Roll Call: Anna Wintour, Bee Shaffer, Ingrid Sischy, Sandy Brant, Julia Restoin Roitfeld

Chic Report: Alexander McQueen's fall show was a romantic fairy tale starring British colonial-era princesses (and one suitably fantastical, silver-draped tree), which translated into one of his most stunning collections. There were a series of exquisitely conceived ballet dresses, including a red feathered number, a balloon-sleeved frock with an enormous, woodsy headpiece, a delicately embroidered, crinolined frock, and a dreamy cream dress with a peacock lace overlay. Indian Empire elements were also sprinkled throughout--think Maharaja slippers, sari draping, and intricate embroidery--as well as crisp, military-inspired flourishes. The audience, it's safe to say, was enraptured. "Who needs couture when you have McQueen?" asked T's Stefano Tonchi. "The technique and workmanship that went into that collection was really fantastic." French Vogue's Carine Roitfeld agreed. "The audience was with Alexander on nearly every single look," she raved from the front row. "We really experienced something emotional tonight. This was his best collection in many seasons!"

CHANEL
Roll Call: Claudia Schiffer, Robbie Myers, Mario Testino, Linda Wells, Michael Fink, Amy Astley

Chic Report: Chanel's Fall 2008 show was a tribute to the brand's glamorous past, hence the staggering carousel smack in the middle of the space decorated with staples like camellias, pearls, and quilted bags. Models walked the circular runway and then boarded the merry-go-round (all the better to appreciate the looks, one last time) flaunting something-for-everyone looks like little sweater dresses, lacy blouses with black trousers, and sweet berets. The iconic Chanel suit got an update, with skirt-and-jacket combos in washed-out tweed, kimono sleeves, and skirts with longer proportions. "I loved the jackets, the layering, and the bi-color tights were really chic," said Neiman Marcus's Ken Downing. "But really, how could you not love a collection in the Grand Palais with a carousel in the middle of the show?" 

CHLOÉ
Roll Call: Carine Roitfeld, Patrick Demarchelier, Anna Wintour, Bee Shaffer, Kanye West, Fabien Baron, Howard Socol, Charla Lawhon, Hal Rubenstein, Linda Wells, Paul Cavaco, Kate Betts, Glenda Bailey

Chic Report: Melim Andersson's new Chloé collection was a tribute to embroidered, dainty girliness--and each piece was more befitting a hot young Hollywood starlet than the last. Among the prettiest looks were a short-sleeved coat with sparkly embellishments, flouncy skirts and dresses in cheerful, imaginative prints, boxy furs, fluttery chiffon blouses, and floral-printed tights. "I absolutely loved the silhouettes," said Bruno Frisoni. "Chloé always mixes evening and day wear so well!"  

JOHN GALLIANO
Roll Call: Lucy Liu, Kanye West, Mario Sorrenti, Mario Testino, Anna Wintour, Bee Shaffer, Carine Roitfeld, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Alexis Bryan, Spencer Morgan

Chic Report: John Galliano was clearly channeling the exotic temptresses of the early silent era when he dreamt up his new collection (think Theda Bara steaming up the plush, Far East-themed sets in Salome). The show was a riot of rich color and texture, with harem pants galore, a lipstick red, fur-trimmed coat, fluttery dresses in electric orange, plum, and gold, and a few clingy, louche evening gowns with the most divine embellishments. Driving the Orientalist motif home were a series of bright, swirling turbans by milliner Stephen Jones. "The dresses had a roaring twenties feel and an overall sense of fun," said Bazaar's Glenda Bailey. "And I loved watching those hats go by!"

LANVIN
Roll Call: Lucy Liu, Jessica Alba, Kanye West, Alexis Phifer, Allison Sarofim, Carine Roitfeld, Mario Testino, Milla Jovovich

Chic Report: With his fall collection, Alber Elbaz has officially cornered the market in wearable, chic, sexy looks befitting most occasions. The color palette was very black and grey, but the pieces were anything but dark. One-shouldered looks were ubiquitous, showing up in a black satin dress, a tiered grey number, and a loose blouse paired with a crisp black skirt--all of which were offset with heavy, chunky jewelry at the neck and wrists. Elbaz made the LBD glorious again, showing a silver-striped dress, a ruffly cocktail frock, and a belted, slightly slouchy wrap-dress. "I thought it was a completely authoritative take on hardened elegance with ironic substance mixed in," said Vogue's Hamish Bowles. "Desirable clothes in every way!"

LOUIS VUITTON
Roll Call: Sofia Coppola, Kanye West, Alexis Phifer, Anna Wintour, Antoine Arnault, Eva Chow, Lapo Elkann, Carine Roitfeld, Robbie Myers, Joe Zee, Ingrid Sischy, Sandy Brant, Maggie Gyllenhaal (her only show of the week!)

Chic Report: Marc Jacobs's fall collection for Louis Vuitton was all about exaggerated, over-the-top proportions in the most muted colors like washed-out taupe, lemon, and dove grey. The shapes definitely recalled the eighties, with pear-shaped pants, oversized jackets, and odd, squared-off skirts making a strong showing. On the more wearable side of things were a few luxurious furs and a series of chic cocktail gowns, including a painstakingly pintucked greige number, and a '50s-inspired lace overlay prom dress. VIPs like Dita Von Teese were impressed. "The pleating and stitching on the skirts was impeccable," raved the burlesque star. Milla Jovovich agreed, saying, "I want the black and wool skirts as fast as I can get my hands on them!"

MIU MIU
Roll Call: Ludivine Sagnier, Chloë Sevigny, Mischa Barton, Milla Jovovich, Jefferson Hack, Arya Stark, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, and French actresses Mélanie Bernier and Sara Forestier

Chic Report: Miucca Prada's divine muse for her newest Miu Miu collection was, shockingly enough, jockeys. Models emerged in literal jockey uniforms, complete with their initials monogrammed in leather across their chests. The sporty theme continued with streamlined, color-blocked dresses, windbreaker-ish jackets, and laser-cut shifts worn over bodysuits (definitely a nod to Prada's lace-mad fall show). For evening, Prada showed a series of fancy, broad-shouldered cocktail dresses in matte black and sequins.

NINA RICCI
Roll Call: Dr. Patricia Wexler, Anne Grauso, Glenda Bailey, Linda Wells, Anne Slowey

Chic Report: Olivier Theyskins, currently the heartthrob of Paris show week, was feeling more romantic than usual for fall. Blame it on the Davis/Santo Domingo nuptials? Maybe, but the looks were anything but bridal. Slouchy satin trousers, cut full through the hips, were offset with cropped jackets and demure scarves, as if destined for the luxest safari imaginable. On the evening front, sleek sleeved dresses had presence, especially in satin, as did longish leather jackets with achingly bold shoulders. "Heartbreakingly beautiful," sighed Elle's Anne Slowey. "I love the way Olivier thinks about different shapes, like cutaways and wider jackets and pants," said Allure's Linda Wells. "He's such an incredible artist and I feel lucky to go to his show!"