Stefano Pilati Steps Off the Runway

(PARIS) Stefano Pilati has chosen to forego a formal runway show for his Fall 2008 menswear collection, opting instead for a more hands-on approach.

The designer plans to showcase his designs on the evening of January 16, on the eve of the official start of the Paris men's shows, which run through Jan. 20. The presentation, to be followed by a private dinner, will first be shown to a hand-picked audience of press and retailers, and marks the first time the YSL show has been off the main fashion calendar since Gucci Group acquired the brand in November 1999.

Pilati is expected to re-imagine the way in which he shows his men's collection--a sort of experiment and a way of challenging convention. One of his aims is to "reduce the distance between editors and the clothing," and to create a more tangible experience whereby guests can touch and fully appreciate the intricacy of detail in the collection. "We're as invested as we ever have been in the category," a YSL spokesperson said, dispelling any thoughts that the decision was a cost-cutting measure.

While specifics on the location and the exact layout behind the new approach are still being finalized, it most certainly won't be a traditional run-of-the mill show. During that time, YSL will also celebrate its redesigned Place Saint-Sulpice boutique in Saint Germain.

Given the nature of the new format, nothing official has been set in stone. Pilati will make the decision following the January show as to how to approach further shows--not ruling out the possibility of returning to the runway. What is clear, however, is that the number of invitees is expected to be reduced. "The nature of the event will dictate the number of guests we can accommodate," the spokesperson added. In seasons past, typical YSL men's shows have accommodated anywhere from 800 to 1,000 guests.

Guests not able to attend the evening event will be invited to view the collection--in the same format--on Jan. 17 and 18.

Pilati's decision to go in a new direction follows in the YSL spirit that has existed since the days of Monsieur Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, both of whom were chiefly responsible for shaping a house that has historically pushed the envelope and shunned convention.

On a separate note, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten has also announced his return to the Paris runways after a one-season hiatus where he presented in Milan. His show is scheduled to take place on Jan. 17 at Rue de l'École de Médecine.
JIM SHI