London Calling

(LONDON) While you might still be coming back down to earth from last week's fashion barrage here in New York, there is no rest for the chic. London Fashion Week has been happening in full force, so The Daily took a look at some highlights from Ol' Blighty thus far.

Biba
Ciao, Bella! Ms. Freud's debut collection for Barbara Hulanicki's definitive '60s London label was true to form: nodding to the art-deco moon child persona, it fooled with hem- and waistlines and utilized plenty of prints. Chloé-esque lace bell sleeved mini-dresses (Phoebe Philo was in the front row), wool maxi rompers layered atop geometric print blouses, and shimmering prairie gowns almost made up for awkward overalls and ratty Biba logo tees.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gareth Pugh
Pugh's puffed-up runway displayed not a swatch of flesh from its genderless, faceless models. With ideas so fantastic they made Galliano look like Herrera, the designer hypnotized with hyper-geometric Harlequin looks made of plastic tiles, foil, and vinyl. The Mad Hatter tea party vibe continued with latex leggings and foil trousers below chessboard coats of enormous proportions. Black lacquer triangular wings and inflated plastic pool floatie gauntlets in black and white gave models the means to take flight back to Mad Max Mars.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paul Smith Women
For women who identify more with Hugh Grant than any of his glamorous girlfriends came oversized blazers, twill shorts, seductively unbuttoned baggy men's-style shirts, sweater vests, skinny ties, easy-fit flat front trousers, and some sheer madras blouses. Bright loafers offset the muted colors of the looks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Richard Nicoll
Fully ballooned polka-dot parachute pants and porkpie hats were paired with high-tops, white wallet chains, and clownish blazers with sand dollar-sized silver buttons for a look that was equal parts Zoot-suit, Charivari Valley girl, and Eighties two-tone ska. High-waisted shorts and half-shirt blouses that cut off above the waistline gave the upper-half of the midriff some face time, while shocks of red-orange break up shades of grey and white.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Roksanda Ilincic
Shown with extreme eyebrows, the Serbian-born designer's shapes gave new meaning to the word 'voluminous.' Ilincic attached large, misshapen bows to the spaghetti straps and cap-sleeves of her shiny satin dresses. Also shown were exaggeratedly square necklines and avant-puffy sleeves in mandarin, navy, and numerous incarnations of cream and white. Structured dresses and coats in Oriental brocade with gold leaf overlay and midsection crepe poufs that negated the need for Pilates all put this collection in the out-there realm.
ANGELA GAIMARI