Runway Reviews

(MILAN) Marni
Consuelo Castiglioni's collection was like a goldmine day at the flea market. Good finds were exceptional, and the rest was eclipsed by the positive. She gave her audience an eccentric shopping list--a cotton check woven with rubber, a bit of lurex tweed, a few geometric print sweaters, and a bunch of petal earrings. Bracelets made of wood and resin, wedges, silk headscarves, and nappa bags were all accessory standouts. Piece by piece in every second look, Marni gave its woman enough to covet for next spring and far beyond.

Dolce & Gabbana
After a few seasons full of editorial bait, Dolce and Gabbana delivered a strong parade of greatest hits rife with scarlet prints, sensual black lace, and a garden of rose petal silks. This collection aimed to please a dame that keeps company in the finest circles, and the Italians delivered that with utmost confidence and cinematic showmanship. The swimsuit finale led by Natasha Poly was especially pleasing, as fifty-something girls charmed the audience (and live cameras) with animal prints and mega watt smiles.

Etro
Veronica Etro's spring collection came to fruition with the aim of "dressing a real woman." And in the company's world, that means a generous selection of fresh-looking botanical and trompe l'oeil prints on light silk, metallic leather numbers, and admirable boyfriend jackets. Overall, the colors were painterly, the belt necklaces were appealing, and mood was chic and playful. Standout pieces included a flowing robe rocked by Karlie Kloss and Freja's ornate jacket.

Missoni
"Like nouvelle Isadora Duncan, these sylphs soar and embrace life, dancing to the sound of secret inner music." This was Angela Missoni's melodic vision for spring; made possible by loose origami and wave work and sensual light knits and curious friendship necklaces. The showing itself was clearly bulked up with masses of jewelry, separates, and all those sandals. But ultimately, lovely pieces like wrap cardigans, airy lace bodysuits, and great jersey bandeaus are unique gems that make Missoni crucial to so many.

Salvatore Ferragamo
For her last effort in the house, Christina Ortiz took a scenic mind trip to the African lands and came away with a fresh-looking effort highlighted by bold and humid colors like ripe lemon, watermelon and cherry. Featherweight blouses, timeless jackets in classic neutrals, and draped dresses (like an electric pink on Vlada) were obvious standouts. The shoes are always to noteworthy here, and this season's caiman, python, and wood offerings were particularly admirable.

Fendi
"This is really just about deconstructed, airy, modern clothes," explained Karl Lagerfeld after the collection that probably required very few adjectives to begin with. The sophisticated boudoir showmanship was the theme and the effort was full of gorgeous white cocktails, chiffon, sand colors, fur accents, and playful knickers. We also loved the interchangeable baguettes conceived with Silvia Venturini Fendi. "We almost thought of the bag as a doll," Fendi told us. "Something you can dress, undress and take apart with modern edge."