Nouveau Ricci?

(NEW YORK) As fashion executives rededicate themselves to focusing on the bottom line, the industry's creatives are certain to take a hit. Olivier Theyskens, one of the most critically-acclaimed designers in the business, is said to be leaving the house of Nina Ricci following a Spring 2009 collection that left retailers wondering backstage if the "real collection" was available in the showroom. The visionary designer always thinks ahead of his time, and his indisputable talent has gathered a coterie of devoted fans among top editors such as Vogue's Anna Wintour. To the public, he is best known for the wardrobe he creates for the various public appearances of actress Reese Witherspoon, most memorably the eggplant strapless gown she wore to the 2007 Academy Awards.

Named creative director at Rochas in 2002 when he was just 25, Theyskens was awarded the CFDA's International Award in 2006 by Wintour herself. In July 2006, parent company Procter & Gamble announced the discontinuation of Rochas' fashion division, which is now being revived for Fall 2009 by Marco Zanini, formerly a designer of Halston and Versace.

Theyskens then replaced Lars Nilsson as artistic director at Nina Ricci in late 2006. Spring 2009 was his fourth and most controversial collection. Industry sources say that Ricci brass sat down with Theyskens in November to discuss adjusting future collections to the needs of the commercial market. Despite these efforts, it appears that Theyskens' tenure at Ricci is now in jeopardy.

Nina Ricci is owned by Spanish conglomerate Puig. The president of its fashion division, Mario Grauso, is widely believed to be one of the most astute businessmen in the fashion industry, known for his creativity and vision. He did not respond to repeated requests for comment.
ASHLEY BAKER