Runway Reviews

(MILAN) Moschino

Chez Moschino, fashion is a playful, joyful enterprise--even at a 9:00 a.m. show in the Milano Moda tent. The fun began with Maria Carla sporting gem-encrusted cat's eye glasses (an upscale version of those commonly found at Ricky's) and an eccentrically teased updo. Fashion aside, this attitude explains today's Moschino--an irreverent patina slapped on some very serious clothes. The collection began in black and white; most memorable was a noir chiffon dress endowed with an elaborate b&w silk rose at the rear. Another section composed mostly of chestnut seperates had the buyers nodding, while the editors began anxiously scribbling when the rose-colored silk blouse with matching pants, slouchy turquoise silk car coat and dark orchid chiffon frocks with plenty of ruffles appeared. Moschino knows its customer, a serious feat in these heady times. Luckily, they'll have plenty of hits to choose from when this collection hits the shelves.

Jil Sander

It's hard to get more modern than Raf Simons' creations for Jil Sander. In his world, newness is all, even when it feigns austerity to the naked eye. Tuesday's show was breathtaking, a testament to Simons' unique and uncompromised vision to offer women sophisticated and complex clothes that can legitimately work in the hors-runway scheme of things. There was a bounty of suiting, but jackets had surprisingly draped backs, which nicely contrasted with the angularity of asymmetrical hemlines in front. To play with last spring's transparency created with all that netting, fringe was ubiquitous yesterday. It was used horizontally in panels to give a black sheath an interesting back before Simons let loose, sending out black and white minidresses endowed with rows upon rows of floor-length fringe. Even a small shoulder bag had the sidewalk-grazing stuff, proving that few do quiet drama as Simons does. No wonder the designer came out for his bow just the slightest bit choked up--sometimes, all that beauty is a bit hard to handle.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Cristina Ortiz's collection for Ferragamo was focused, but in the wrong places. Volume, surtout around the hips and abdomen region, was countered by a bareness on top. Case in point: loads of free-form frocks fastened with leather halter straps, which occasionally trickled down the back rather successfully in makeshift corsets. While the palette of butter, chartreuse, sand, khaki and pops of orange and cherry red was spot-on for Spring, one wonders if the looks will suit the Ferragamo customer, who we suspect would be more amenable to highly sophisticated, more tailored pieces. The footwear and handbags, of course, were spot-on, a credit to James Ferragamo's revolutionizing of the century-tested Ferragamo aesthetic. But after two seasons of rather rootless ready-to-wear, one wonders what identity Ortiz envisions for the brand.