Garrard's American Debut

(LOS ANGELES) Move over Harry Winston, De Beers, and Cartier: there's a new kid in town. One who's almost 300 years old. Garrard, under the ownership of The Yucaipa Companies LLC, will today debut their bi-level, 3,600-square-foot U.S. flagship at Two Rodeo, a charming al fresco shopping center adjacent to the famed Rodeo Drive and Beverly Wilshire Four Seasons hotel.

Why would Garrard, the London-based jeweler dating back to 1735-makers of Princess Diana's engagement ring and the crowns for much of Britain's historic monarchs-choose Los Angeles to make their formal foray into America?

There's the obvious celebrity factor and award show season buzz-the new Garrard store at Two Rodeo has settled into a space vacated by Badgley Mischka and Escada Sport, which has two well-positioned VIP rooms with leather sofas, cream carpets, and royal appointments framed on the second floor walls. But there's another reason: a large investor in the brand is Hollywood man Ron Burkle, who reportedly acquired the company for an estimated $20 to $30 million. Since splitting with sister company Asprey (with which it was aligned for only two years, from 1998 to 2000), Garrard has needed an image overhaul in the U.S. With this new boutique, which will be fêted with an opening party this evening, executives hope to fulfill that desire: Union Jacks currently line Two Rodeo and there's even an outdoor chandelier for the event.

Conceived by architect Jordan Mozer and interior designer Thomas Bartlett, the store is quietly outfitted, but powerful all the same: ceiling-to-floor chandeliers created by David Wilkinson, the chandelier maker to Buckingham Palace, are tinted with raspberry-hued glass, Garrard's official color. The first floor showcases the jewelry collections in a natural light; a circular counter of waist-high rosewood is topped with limestone marble, and various window cases are set in the walls outside of the case. To educate inquiring press as to what sets Garrard diamonds apart, the company imported one of the world's best diamond cutters, Gabi Tolkowsky from Antwerp, who created the company's "eternal cut." "It represents petals of a flower in the center of the stone," Tolkowsky said. It is now a signature of Garrard's and appears in the diamond stones of the company's engagement rings as well as major diamond necklaces.

The Garrard collections have three major themes: the Wings collection of earrings, pendants, rings, and cuff links-diamonds set in soft wings that represent angels; the Regal collection, reminiscent of royalty; and Knight Rider, the most masculine of the collections, which features shapes from chivalry and heraldry-shields, crosses, and weaponry.

Executives of the company were on hand to greet the press, including Corinna Pike, the heritage manager of the Garrard brand, and Georgina Skan, the head designer of Garrard (wearing a pearl and diamond Regal collection cross that reverses to black diamonds). Of course, some of the company's special pieces were flown in from London, including a $6.2 million, 99-carat Cleopatra Sapphire and the $6.5 million Great Chrysanthemum, a 104.15-carat fancy brown orange pear-shaped diamond, discovered in South Africa in 1963.
MERLE GINSBERG