Runway Reviews

(NEW YORK) Now we're cooking with gas, chicettes! From the Tents to the top of Bumble & bumble, here's the latest collections that lit our fire.

3.1 Phillip Lim
Every girl needs Phillip Lim's flannel cow-neck sack dress. Paired with a silk blouse with chain loop cuffs, it made for what was one of many visually stunning standouts in his fall collection. Polka dots surfaced here as well, but in a sweet cotton tulle trapeze dress, which we would've paired with the equally versatile double knit military coat. Lim has rapidly gained a highly exclusive following of fashion girls and the non, all of whom know that Lim basics-the gabardine trench, tuxedo trouser, knit tunic, and jersey dress-will be pieces that last.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diane von Furstenberg
Though DVF's collection was decidedly dress-centric, that didn't equal a lack of variety. Even the black frocks, of which there were many, had an eye-pleasing uniqueness, and each one she sent one down the runway felt as fresh as the first time. There were shirt dresses, to be sure, in graphic, optical color block patterns of red, berry pink, and tan, and glossy taffeta dresses in a variety of sleeve lengths whose full skirts boasted tiered ruffles made for 17th-century Spanish paintings with the versatility to complement the uptown girl and gallery chicette alike. A lesson in art history told with gravitas and vim, it was one of the strongest collections the week here has seen yet. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DKNY
Donna Karan continues to live in a fast-paced world, made all the more evident by her splendid DKNY show, which featured models walking down a u-shaped runway with lightning bolt speed. The tweed was there, as was the mustard, the berets, the sequins, and the oversized sweaters-DKNY women from tip to toe. "This is New York City glam," Karan said. "It's designed for me and for my daughter, Gaby." Of particular note was a chic grey wide-legged pant suit worn by Irina Lazaraneau with a heart-print blouse tucked underneath. The bright splashes of color were a welcome sight for fall, as were the floral print tops and the oversized maroon sweetheart sweaters.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Erin Fetherston
As Zooey Deschanel crooned "Dream a Little Dream of Me," Erin Fetherston sent a sweet and lowdown little collection down her silver, star-spangled runway. As dreamily girlish as they were wearable, Fetherston's uber-flattering frocks in celestial whites and moondust greys featured defined waists before floating out and finishing with a single flirty ruffle. Black, gently spangled mini dresses, meanwhile, were fluid as the night sky. And and for demurely divine, goddess-like evening gowns that closed the show, we'll be dreaming 'til they hit stores for sure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lela Rose
Her flawless fall collection was scented with chic, sophisticated taste. From the light and floaty daisy tulle trimmed shirtdress to the fluted herringbone skirt to the excellent use of marigold and navy, Rose did not disappointed her customer. She knows how to execute basics-witness a solid cashmere jersey tee-as well as she does a fussy bow front blouse tucked into an embroidered pinafore. Must-haves included a crimson tucked hem dress with daisy tulle and a dream of a gown fashioned in waffle organza and accented with lace and horsehair.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luella Bartley
Honestly, what's not to love about a Luella Bartley girl? She's the PYT that everyone clamors to be-and the only one oblivious to it all is the young ingénue herself. Bartley's sweet-at-heart rebel marched out for fall in folded-down motorcycle boots, and there seemed to be a Kim Gordon vibe with a particular sequined and striped blazer, which nicely complemented the teal satin rhinestone-pocked skirt, velvet polka dot debutante cocktail dresses (think pink tulle), and conservative red velvet riding coat that was worn with a fur baseball cap. The accessories played a smaller role this season, with just a few styles-mainly that of a feed bag with trinkets hanging off the side-marching out. Bartley cut a fantastic long coats for fall, but it'll take a brave-and confident-young girl to pull off all the pouf. We're sure she's out there...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Matthew Williamson
By God, Matthew Williamson loves his color and he's going to show it! In an attempt to "cocoon the woman's body," all the Art Deco madness paired with pendants, psychedelic globe cuffs, and mirrored pieces was an explosion for the senses. The beige boucle coats will easily find a following, as will the patchwork furs. But what really stole the show were the simple printed silk georgette pieces that have become Williamson's trademark.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sari Gueron
Owls were the primary inspiration for Sari Gueron this fall, and she proved that she can tackle even the kookiest of winged animals with finesse and polish. Her fall collection was appropriately thought out, from the daywear separates down to the floorlength gowns that screamed red carpet-but in the subtlest of ways. Anna Paquin and Michelle Williams, both of whom were in the front row, will appreciate the cashmere wool cardigans, shiny silk stops, and flannel pants that are an ideal 9-to-5 working girl's essentials. But while she took a step forward with her daywear, she stayed consistently strong with her eveningwear, sending out a series of cotton gowns that mastered the right mix of Swarovski crystal detailing with those tried and true feathers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tuleh
Love was certainly in the air at Bryan Bradley's Tuleh show. Fur was the order of the evening, either trimmed or full-on attached to the backs of the models who donned his ever-eclectic designs. A gorgeous silk dress with delicate beads up the back contrasted with the structured, sleek pantsuits, but it was still signature Tuleh all the way, as witnessed by a tweed-trimmed coat that was coated on top of what looked like patches of patent leather that had been dipped in acid. Love is in the air, yes, but it's puppy love this time around.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Z Zegna
Z Zegna, the new, casual men's line for young Americans with a penchant for Italian attitude, showed swaggering streetwear for uomos looking to turn heads without resorting to over-the-top ostentation. Double breasted suits in charcoal plaids boasted easy, old-school confidence, while leather bomber jackets in soft grey were a subtle, unexpected touch. Ultimately, this tomcat gets want he wants: the ladies are wowed while he looks like he couldn't care less.