Paris Menswear Report

(PARIS) Are you a Gaultier swinger, a Rykiel chicster, or a Lanvin's dark horse? Read on and find out...

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
The locks were head and shoulders over the looks-literally. Channeling the movie Shampoo, Gaultier's latest men's show served up a generous bouffant-'n'-chops buffet and let the clothes carry the vibe from there. But while the rust, cognac, and burnt orange color cocktail (not to mention Zodiac-inspired prints and a few tighter-than-tight pairs of pants) screamed '70s California, it wasn't all retro costuming; metallics provided a subtle update, as did streamlined combat-style boots, tapered ankles, and trenches with cinched waists and sleek, elongated sihouettes. Perhaps the collection's most remarkable facet, however, was its reintroduction of swaggering, hirsute masculinity. From Warren Beatty to Dov Charney, some peacocks will always be too fabulous to clip their wings.

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RYKIEL HOMME
Strike another one up for Rykiel's right-on color sense, capable of rendering even Parisian chic cheeky. Punchy, Crayola-pure purples and blues livened up the predominantly black and grey color palette in the form of stripes and childlike, five-point stars, as well as popping up on suit vests, bubbly bow ties, and chunky, floor-length knit scarves. Meanwhile-save for a few meta flourishes, like pullovers in both black and white labeled "Big Black Pull"-none-too-slouchy nor too-skinny were the cardigans, blazers, pants, and thigh-length hooded jackets that comprised this more-or-less straightforward, exceedingly hip collection.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

LANVIN
Though models marched out wearing riding caps and an all-red look later sealed the deal, Lanvin's collection was no simple retooling of equestrian style; the framework was merely the starting point for a tightly focused, sophisticatedly sporty collection of deliciously dark essentials. Ossendrijver relaxed the uptight silhouette, widening cuts (short, plump ties and slightly concave lines on coats and blazers) and shifting focus to the waist (cropped double-breasted jackets, medium-high rises on pants) while also fiddling with class (old-school high top sneakers) and gender (tulip petal cuts on rumpled satiny tracksuits in gold and neon purple). But social commentary played second fiddle, never compromising the savory sobriety of the overall look.