Daily Front Row

2010 June 24

Runway Review: Akris

Akris Resort 2011
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(NEW YORK) Akris
Albert Kriemler is orchestrating a major push for Akris in the United States. Celebrating 30 seasons of collaborating with Steven Klein at Bergdorf in April...Hosting a virtual trunk show at Bergdorf yesterday...coaxing Bergdorf clients to the New Yorkers for Children Fool's Fete, which the brand sponsored...Fortuitously, his collections deliver an even stronger message than all the marketing. For Resort, the aforementioned BG loyalists will find a wealth of casual-luxe staples in endless silhouettes and color combinations. But in terms of direction, Kriemler was inspired by Capri as filmed by Jean-Luc Godard and embellished by Brigitte Bardot in Le Mépris. Saturated ceruleans and burnt siennas appeared in nipped-waist unlined lightweight wool jackets and easy sheaths. A pieced-together camel coat in brushed cotton and ultrasoft leather was the most inspired take on outerwear. But it was Kriemler's photo prints, which captured cafe life as well as a view of the sea, that packed the biggest punch. A silk printed shift topped off by a khaki trench lined in the same print was simply brilliant---especially because the print peeked out behind the jacket's popped collar. Precision, timing, elegance---Kriemler is an athletic designer, nimbly navigating his client's needs and responding to his or her desires. Here's hoping he provides a few more evening looks for Spring---clearly, his ladies are game.