2010 June 10
Runway Reviews: Calvin Klein Collection, Carolina Herrera, Luca Luca, Reem Acra
(NEW YORK) Calvin Klein Collection
Francisco Costa's genius lies in the details, the silhouettes, and the fabrics. (Among other places). For resort, he delivered 24 crisp and immaculate looks in shades of ivory, cream and alabaster. True to form, the pieces were never in-your-face glamorous, but the subtle sophistication and unerring sense of quiet understatement is what makes Costa's collections so memorable. Silhouettes were geometric, but the look was far from harsh. Cotton jackets and tanks and frocks and skirts swayed and rippled, injecting movement into the collection. Chalk-hued linen dresses and silk strapless gowns are destined for balmy climes, while well-timed bursts of green and canary yellow added a bit of drama. And consider the mid-calf hemline your go-to style for the season.
Sorbet-colored jacquard strapless dresses, chiffon ruffle gowns and pink taffeta blouses served as a reminder that good, old-fashioned femininity is back in style. Dreamy and romantic, Herrera drew on 19th Century impressionism to create looks full of supple artistry and unabashed wonder. Prints that looked like abstract sunbursts from a distance were really just unfurling parasols. Of course, there were the usual lace-trimmed gowns in ultra-flattering silhouettes....and Herrera's signature delectable cocktail frocks that managed to be both young at heart yet very grown-up. Tiered layers and asymmetry left certain pieces looking deliberately askew, a refreshing, edgy addition to Herrera's collection of confections.
Designer Raul Melgoza is becoming increasingly confident with each season, and for Resort, his well-priced, high-quality designer separates offered a kicky, confident take on daywear. Entirely sourced and produced in Italy, Luca Luca's swing skirts and tweed day dresses are well-suited for his uptown clientele, while draped silk gowns in coral and floral chiffon will work nicely for evening.
Whether in gold lame or bold prints, Reem Acra seems to shine particularly bright in resort season. This designer's unabashed love of brights sings on the sales floor, especially in the warmer months. Palm Beachy caftans in turquoise and Pepto pink cater to loosey-goosey outdoors affairs, while goddess gowns in gold-flecked cerulean have enough interior structure to work for the fanciest ballrooms in town. A celery and lame silk chiffon print offered plenty of style options for Acra's more adventurous customer.