2011 October 3

Spring 2012: John Galliano, Givenchy

John Galliano Spring 2012 John Galliano Spring 2012
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(PARIS) John Galliano
Under the umbrella of Mary Poppins, creative director Bill Graytten sent out a proper (and properly seductive) brigade of mods outfitted in frilly, ladylike confections suitable for the nanny-gone-rogue. There were no flashy backdrops, wild makeup, or outlandish costuming of seasons past but Graytten did manage to inject John Galliano's theatrical flair here or there. Take, the powder blue peplum jacket with chocolate edging and exaggerated sleeves, paired with simple white trousers. A lovely fusion of the label's pizzazz with a mix of the current designer's more commercial slant. On view were simple straw boaters and clean-as-a-whistle buns teamed with candy-colored peek-a-boo dresses of every kind--sheer, pleated, ruffled, draped, and appliqued with Spring buds. In contrast, Graytten offered up black and white pairings from a daytime plaid A-line skirt and fitted blazer to a voluminous two-tone gown boasting a dramatic ruffled tulle skirt. Well done!

Surfers and mermaids. That was the oceanic inspiration for Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci over the weekend. Out waltzed mods in nautically-inclined land looks like a new sportif white suit with skintight stovepipe pants layered with a boyish button-down and sharply tailored tuxedo vest. Later, a similar look was recreated in a ruffled blazer-pant combo--almost wet suit in nature. In lieu of dizzying patterns and print mash-ups, Tisci opted for texture, texture, texture in exotic eel, stingray, and shark cut into covetable suiting or body-skimming peplum dresses. A fitting aquatic offering, non? The mermaid influence came in later with shimmery peach and blue sequined numbers taking the place of those other underwater sea creatures. To close the show, Gisele stomped down the runway, in all her tanned and toned glory, sporting a shiny shortie ensemble layered beneath a scaley olive blazer. Spring fever, anyone?