2009 October 5
Givenchy - Paris Spring 2010
(PARIS) Riccaro Tisci knows how to get all of Paris into a mood--for Spring, surreal. The gothic romance Tisci is known for translated into a sublime meditation on femininity. Equal parts vulnerable (i.e. lace) and impervious (leather, padded shoulders, hoof-style boots), it's intended for a complicated woman. It began with a graphic striped blazer, a Tisci interpretation of sailor stripes à la française. Apparently, per the show notes, he's also been researching '60s Roman couture--hence the draped dresses (often mini)--but those looks constituted a smaller moment in a collection full of sexy drop-crotch trousers, leather kilts, and pailette-laden boleros. And women want to look this complicated. Tisci is one of the few designers with a very real point of view, and judging from the reception and reverence he receives so consistently, it appears that almost everyone is on-board.