2008 October 6

Louis Vuitton - Paris Spring 2009

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(PARIS) Marc Jacobs' "love letter to Paris," as he called it, resulted in his most glorious collection for Louis Vuitton thus far. Accompanied by the musical stylings of Edith Piaf, every look had so much sass that the front row of Sofia Coppola, Nigo, Kerry Washington, and Lenny Kravitz (not to mention every editor worth noting) couldn't stifle their grins. (Next time, Marc, call Cotillard as well!) "It's just a love of other cultures," said Jacobs after the show. "We didn't actually look at anything specific, we just know it all in our heads." If there was any doubt that Jacobs is on top of his game--well, there hasn't been any for a while now, has there? The clothes began loosely with the 1940s, in long-sleeved minidresses in rust and burnt orange, showgirl-ed up with transparent panels in back that allowed polka-dot bloomers to wink through. Mixed media abounded, especially in accessories. Le tout Paris had a say--especially Francophone Africa, which lent its own unique spin to the accessories. There were also chicettes from the 8eme and 16eme arrondissements, who prefer classic navy and beige combinations. The bohos of St. Germain weighed in, in wide-leg dotted trousers and body-con cardigans. But attempting to unfurl all these references is a futile exercise, as Jacobs imagined every possible splinter of the city's framework in order to send it a proper homage. The universal appeal of the city arriving courtesy of the particular, if you will. "I think it's the most unbelievable, and optimistic, and rich show of the week," said Antoine Arnault. "That was genius!" proclaimed Mario Testino, embracing Jacobs after the show. It was an accomplishment so serious that it was exhausting even to watch. Jacobs must've felt similarly: "I just want to go to bed!"