2007 October 7
Nina Ricci - Paris Fashion Week Spring 2008
(PARIS) Gone were the shades of lemon and the bright white space upon which Olivier Theyskens's designs floated through a foggy oasis for fall. In its place was a black venue at the Tuileries that featured two larger-than-life concrete slabs that curved inwards to form the basis for the models to enter upon a steel runway. But while there was no mist in the air, this Nina Ricci girl still floated on clouds, clad in both the spectacular beauty and transfixing medley of separates and gowns, times current and past, all with Theyskens's trademark plumage accent.
"She wasn't so much a Cinderella girl as she was one who had been out partying all night," he explained. "It was the Haute Couture hippie." Now that's a concept for a brand who's celebrating its 75th anniversary. The clothes were delicious, their commercial viability no doubt sealed by the effortless use of charmeuse with denim or with leather. The jackets melded seamlessly over the tops and down to the skirts, projecting one fluid, almost patchwork-like, image after another. A purple-hued floral gown worn under a feathered cape by Tanya D. was drop dead gorgeous. But youth was kept in the tailored trousers and the easy daytime separates. It was soft, romantic, and flowy--themes omnipresent in Paris this week--but it had an underlying primitive nature to it.
As Gene Krell, the international fashion director for Vogue Nippon, put it: "Underneath that Darth Vadar suit, she's wearing panties."