2012 March 5
Paris Fall 2012: Stella McCartney, John Galliano, Lanvin
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(PARIS) Stella McCartney
Sporty and scuba, with dashes of suiting and sweater dressing? It's all part of Stella McCartney's black-and-blue vision of Fall dressing. Trim jackets, A-line skirts, high necks, and sculptural outerwear were the key components, but it's the editorial-friendly suits with exaggerated hips and the gorgeously ornate black and white embroidery offset against Yves Klein blue jackets and skirts that will prove most memorable.
Bonjour, le drame. Bill Gaytten continues to find his footing at Galliano (and elsewhere!), and his seriously chic Fall collection captured the house's rebellious spirit while remaining steadfast to its commitment to spot-on tailoring. Gaytten's colorful offerings included fur-trimmed drab capes, chartreuse waistcoats, a smattering of takes on blanket dressing, and the ruffled chiffon dresses (both long and short) that have been the brand's signature.
Alber Elbaz has reason to celebrate. First and foremost, his tenure at Lanvin has hit the 10-year mark. (An eternity, it seems, especially this week, with the Simons-Pilati-Slimane saga unraveling in full force). Second, he's at the top of his game, both creatively and business-wise. His Fall collection proved it handily, with a cheerfully smart rendition of what he does best. That would be everything from ruffled taffeta to stretch wool new-shape suiting to kicky sheaths to, most rainmaking-ly, the best black skirts in the business. Candy-colored furs and ebullient (if a bit retro) cocktail dresses were just a few of the treats.