2012 March 2
Paris Fall 2012: Hussein Chalayan, Roland Mouret
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(PARIS) Hussein Chalayan
Lit solitude, no dark, no light, and reverse winter. These were just a few of the themes flashing in pixilated form on Hussein Chalayan's runway. Color blocking was a central component in boxy, neon-cuffed blazers and loose color-on-color dresses layered over skinny metallic trousers. In season's past, Chalayan has revisited this age-old favorite but never as brilliantly or with greater effect. Take, for instance, the tangerine and orange "letterman" jacket with sloped shoulders or a streamlined lime and hunter coat. Simple and sleek monochromatic gowns in racing red or the occasional neutral taupe rounded out a collection that might be Chalayan's best.
In New York, weather reports are forecasting warmer temps hovering in the upper fifties, but in Paris this morning editors were caught in the "big freeze" inside the ballroom at the Westin hotel. Rather, the "big freeze" of 1947, which cast a record-breaking chill over the city of light. "There was a sense of contradiction between a new rising elegance, an haute couture attitude, whilst others struggled to keep warm," read the show notes. Roland Mouret harnessed this morsel of history into the theme of his forties-eque collection, long on his signature hip-hugging dresses that twisted and folded, plus a smattering of retro-style suiting accented with soft shades of lemon or pistachio, subtle origami folds and cutaway backs. A pale reindeer motif drew a few smiles. But it was Mouret's first footwear line, R, that garnered the most attention, with enough boots and booties to outlast a colossal snow-in.