2012 February 29
Paris Fall 2012: See by Chloé, Guy Laroche, Limi Feu
(PARIS) See by Chloé
Leave it to the diffusion line of the Paris fashion house that coined the term "prêt-à-porter" to buck against runway trends and opt, instead, for a pre-recorded viral video. Against a marbleized backdrop, mods stomped out to techno beats in a flowing urban wardrobe awash in contrasting tones of olive, taupe, and white against cranberry, black, and a pop of blue. Dresses took on a sheer quality, layered with dainty slips underneath and masculine-tinged jackets overtop. Trousers, a mainstay at the house of Chloé, came in three offerings: tapered, cropped, or skin-tight with a hip-to-ankle zipper running down the leg. These were paired with sheer shirts accented with blouson sleeves, nubby knits, and a variety of coats from an elongated heather blue woolly vest to a cropped russet-colored corduroy number. Press play and you'll not only view the entire collection but also get an exclusive front row seat with commentary and behind-the-scenes snippets, making a compelling case for digital catwalks of the future.
Nary a sliver of décolletage or a teasing glimpse of a well-toned gam peeked through at Guy Laroche this afternoon, thanks to a covered-up collection by creative director Marcel Marongiu that, well, covered all the bases. A high-waisted plum patent leather skirt worn with tall leather boots and a black turtleneck, Fall's ubiquitous topper, opened the show and set a more is more tone for the rest of the lineup. Textured separates--like a shaggy Mongolian lamb shirt-cum-jacket, a saffron sequined skirt, and gold-embellished ankle pants--anchored the demurely edgy collection sprinkled with easy to wear standbys (neutral organza blouses and relaxed satin trousers) you can bank on.
Limi Yamamoto transported her audience by stage coach to Paris during the twilight years--a creative epoch when Surrealism flourished and the artsiest of them all traipsed around in circles with Anais Nin and Henry Miller, Salvador Dali, or Coco Chanel. Thirties hints were filtered through Yamamoto's wondrously whimsical (and slightly punky) eye, adding a dose of her seasonal dichotomy to the mix: masculine versus feminine and black versus white. A peppering of petite LBDs with peter pan collars and a silky black jumper, dripping in strands of pearls and capped with a velvet beret, spoke to the Cocos in the crowd. Meanwhile, oversized jackets, painterly shirts, and ballooning bottoms--cropped pants or swinging skirts--called to the tomboyish literary set.