Yves Saint Laurent
2011 March 8
Paris Fall 2011: Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel
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(PARIS) Yves Saint Laurent
Mother-daughter duo Jane Birkin and Lou Doillon were front row to support Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent, all that was missing was fellow daughter Charlotte Gainsbourg, who recently bowed out of several film commitments while she awaits the arrival of her third child in June. All three ladies know a thing a two about the kind of powerful smoldering sexiness from Yves Saint Laurent, which Pilati captured perfectly last night. The designer referenced the 1970s, pairing classic silk blouses with sexy bi-colored tweed skirts, giving the slightest hint of skin at the knees. Blown-up houndstooth prints also had their moment, giving way into patent leather combinations that lead to dresses and belt accents. Pilati rounded out the presentation with a series of white eveningwear, including Freja Beha Erichsen in the final look: a white ostrich feather coat with black bowed obi belt. Look out for the shoes from this collection as well, they’re impossibly fabulous!
The 10 a.m. start can be quite confusing for some guests. A handful arrive on time, while most just assume the show will start 50 minutes late. Gossip Girl actress Clémence Poésy almost got left out in the cold this morning when she ran into Chanel just as the music for the show started. Lucky for her a seat in the fifth row was spotted by a quick-thinking usher, however she sat with her face in her hands, visibly flustered, for most of the presentation. Ralph Fiennes, Emma Roberts, Alexa Chung, Lily Allen and singers Duffy and Coeur de Pirate were perhaps warned in advance Karl would not wait! They posed for photos as guests were ushered into the massive set, which took up both lengths of the Grand Palais. Karl Lagerfeld’s vision this season saw a long boardwalk with black molten rock on either side, smoke rising ominously from under the catwalk, beyond the large image of a burnt and devastated forest. Once the show started, a large plank was lowered, and Lagerfeld’s victims emerged: looks were over-sized, slightly mix-matched with clunky details like black-lace up boots and extra-large sock/legwarmers. Models wore tweed capes and large, high-waisted tweed trousers, some pleated with elegant rolled cuffs, while evening wear details mimicked flames on the neck of a silk organza dress or leaf details on a black organza and beaded knee length dress. At the end of the show Lagerfeld revealed his inspiration for a fire where everything has burned, “I find the devastated look to be very chic.”