2011 March 8
Paris Fall 2011: Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Giambattista Valli, Chloé
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After Dior, Givenchy was probably the most hotly awaited runway show of the season as the gossip mounts that designer Riccardo Tisci is the safe bet for a move to Christian Dior. Liv Tyler, Nicole Richie, Florence Welch, Kanye West and Ronnie Wood were all front-row ready and maybe just a little surprised by Tisci’s call of the wild, which kicked off the show. The growl was the sound of a panther, illustrated on the front of a button-down silk shirt and its matching pencil skirt. Tisci mixed this theme with occasional mousseline transparency adding a sexy pre-editorial look. The panther theme weaved throughout the line, making appearances as kitschy patterns on jackets and dresses, or as an appliqué detail. With only one pair of trousers in the whole presentation, this collection was extremely feminine: Natalia Vodianova and Karen Elson were the last two girls to present looks, completing Tisci’s vision of luxuriously dangerous sex kittens. Meow!
This season was a family affair at Stella McCartney with her father Sir Paul McCartney and husband Alasdhair Willis in the front row, alongside Natalia Vodianova and her three young children. The program notes even thanked the designer’s devoted clan. For Fall, McCartney’s mix of masculine/feminine couldn’t be more suited for those working mother types--the woman who wants to look chic, with minimal fuss. Her coats, blazers and sweaters were worn oversized, paired with flowing loose cuts for trousers and often worn with sensible moccasins. Dresses had more structure, starting with her Issey Miyake like pleats in the beginning of the show to her strong racer back looks and more feminine dotted dresses. Paul McCartney’s voice came on at the end of the show, another family nod for this maman extraordinaire.
Lee Radziwill was an elegant presence in the front row at Giambattista Valli, sporting a large pair of Jackie O sunglasses with a tasteful zebra print pony skin jacket from Giamba himself. The designer has become the de facto king of dressing socials like fellow front row friends Bianca Brandolini d’Adda and Charlotte Dellal. As his collection shows, Valli has become an expert at dressing all ages, with the much needed rock out pieces like the dual-colored goat fur coats and skirts, to the primer and classic blazer and suit combos for the ladies who lunch. The designer’s palette was noir and cream, with a little bit of hot pink or gold when needed. His eveningwear was more structured, with two finale dresses that would look perfect for any debutante’s ball from Paris to New York.
Hannah MacGibbon was mad for snakeskin this season pairing the print in an array of colors, from bright yellow to emerald greens, in blouses, skirts, dresses and scarves. Her other inspiration seemed very 70s with maxi jeans and patchwork ponchos. Evening however, was all black, with leather overalls and long flowing maxi dresses. At Chloé the accessories are always the star (aside from the front row action of Chloé fragrance face Clémence Poésy) so we definitely had our eye on those low hanging shoulder bags and the elegant round-toe platform shoes. What more could a girl want?