2011 March 7
Paris Fall 2011: Dior, Roland Mouret, Lanvin
FirstView View Gallery
(PARIS) Christian Dior
Outside the Musée Rodin the streets were thronged with gawkers and curious locals, if they were expecting to see a flock of celebrities supporting the house of Christian Dior they were not in the right place. The Arnault family, in an obviously somber mood, had closed ranks, with siblings, Delphine Arnault-Gancia and Antoine Arnault, sitting alongside an equally morose Kris van Assche and Victoire de Castellane. Separating the two pairs was Inglourious Basterds actress Mélanie Laurent, the only red carpet name present, which says a lot about the tenor of this show. Guests were asked to take their seats and with the lights down, instead of the first look opening the show, a spotlight came on for Dior President and CEO, Sidney Toledano, who made a three minute speech reflecting on the recent days' events and the house’s commitment to the ideals of Mr. Christian Dior. John Galliano’s name was not pronounced once during the address, so it was quite a peculiar moment to see Karlie Kloss emerge wearing the first look of the show, in a black maxi double-faced cashmere cloak and a floppy marine blue hat, an ensemble that just screamed Galliano from every detail down to the black ribbons on her teal velvet knickerbocker trousers. Those who may have forgotten, with Toledano’s ode to the petites mains of the Dior atelier, were suddenly aware of the fact that this collection was unadulterated Galliano. At the end of the show, instead of the usual designer bows, the workers of the Dior Ateliers appeared and were received with thunderous applause. It wasn’t quite enough to forget the vision that had just been presented, but it does signal a new era at the house of Christian Dior and we’ll be waiting with bated breath to see where that leads us.
We’d just like to throw this out there -- why not Roland Mouret chez Dior? He’s French, he’s dripping with sophisticated designs and everything he creates is beyond dreamy! On Friday morning Mouret showed another strong collection, sending out models in beautifully cut, womanly pieces: fluid and sensual dresses with pleats and modest fishtails on skirts, structured and incredibly elegant tops and blouses. Silk fabrics fluttered in just the right way, colors were exquisite in soft greys, show-stopping reds, cool khakis, sweet lilacs, and emerald greens. Roland Mouret is quite simply dripping with chic: for this Frenchie living in London, his designs couldn’t look anymore Parisienne. At the end of the show editors like Hilary Alexander were bopping to “Let’s All Chant,” an infectious moment signaling good times for Mouret.
Red wine and pretzels greeted guests like Jade Jagger, Rosamund Pike, Jason Wu, Anna Wintour and daughter, Bee Schaffer, on Friday afternoon at Alber Elbaz’s Fall/Winter 2012 presentation for Lanvin. A mystical setting awaited, with a lonely willow surrounded by fog, opening the show for Elbaz’s witchy Pilgrim-like women, mysterious and strong, in a collection that used primary blacks, with deep reds, browns, and mossy greens, as well as a mix of glorious electric pinks and corals for evening looks at the end of the show. The shapes were fluid with pleated tucks at waists for volume in skirts, and ruffles and draping in necklines and shoulders. The collection was topped by Lanvin’s incredible statement jewelry, roses, a theme that ran throughout the show, elegantly placed on wrists and at necks. At the end of the presentation Queen’s Don’t Stop Me Now was a rousing call to fans – and if the rumors are true that Elbaz is in the running for the top position at Dior, this could be his call to arms!