2011 March 7

Paris Fall 2011: John Galliano, Céline, Hermès

John Galliano Fall 2011 John Galliano Fall 2011
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(PARIS) John Galliano
Who decided to skip Hermès to make it to John Galliano’s five o’clock presentation? Grace Coddington and André Leon Talley were front and center at this informal presentation held in a private mansion on the avenue Foch. However they weren’t the only ones there with a message, Dior C.E.O. Sidney Toledano also joined their ranks, later commenting he was present “to prove that business would carry on and to support the teams.” Obviously inspired by the 1930s, Galliano’s collection was luxuriously at home in these gilded surroundings, with models wearing womanly tweeds; chinoiserie quilted fur-trimmed jackets, and beautifully ornate Chinese-inspired embroidered evening dresses. If the music was any indication, Galliano’s team were praying that this collection might buy them some redemption, with Adele’s song "He Won’t Go” and Chase & Status’ lyrics to End Credits “I hope somebody cares.” Applause was furious for this beautiful collection of classic Galliano mastery, with an unexpectedly high turn out from press and buyers, could this be the beginning of the designer’s rehabilitation?

Phoebe Philo has managed to create the womenswear collection that every woman is going to want to wear for next Fall/Winter. Her starting point was the coat, perhaps the single most important item in a winter wardrobe, which she built with structure, constructing long lean looks that fell mid-calf or at knee-length, and had a density with rigid looking knits and furs. Accents under the coats were skinny trousers in double fabrics and white turtlenecks under blazers. The clothing carried on in the same sort of functional, oversized silhouette, with a mostly muted palette of browns and blacks, with a jolie-laid wood-like fabric series. At the end of the show people were already buzzing about one sure hit, Philo’s take on the two-tone leather doctor’s bag – we advise you to get on those waiting lists now!

What better way to welcome new creative director Christophe Lemaire than to show at the brand’s new Left Bank flagship store, on the rue de Sevrès. Lemaire opened with a series of looks in luxurious pure white, by the sixth look the collection was starting to look very 1920s inspired, with low waist lines and strapped leather jockey hats. When a live falcon made its appearance shortly after, it was clear that instead of referencing the equine roots of the house, Lemaire had chosen a brainier reference, that of elegant falconry, once the preferred sport of kings. Models looked like elegant nomads embarking on a fashionable expedition – with high-waisted leather trousers, long double-knit capes, and several magnificent scarf-inspired pieces. Jane Birkin, perched in the front row, was just one of many who joined in the enthusiastic welcome at the designer’s appearance.