Viktor & Rolf
2010 March 8
Runway Reviews: Céline, Akris, Viktor & Rolf
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Navy outerwear, slightly cropped at the wrist and full-ish in the sleeve and buttoned-up just a touch to the left, kicked off Phoebe Philo's second effort for Céline. Shoppers, you have found your It-Coat. In fact, this collection is full of jackets that will have the fashion paparazzi quaking with joy when you hit the Tuileries next October. The most delicious styles were reverse shearling--the fuzzy stuff on the outside--in navy and off-white, with slightly egg-y shapes and black leather collars best worn popped. But lest we forget the excellent options underneath--a navy ribbed sleveless cashmere turtleneck sweater, worn with ultra-lean and slightly cropped pants, was just as delectable as a dress with a leather breastplate-esque bodice and knee-length wool lamé skirt.
Albert Kreimler is perhaps Paris' preeminent expert when it comes to making clothes that sell--and once again, he struck gold. Akris' dress-heavy Fall collection was governed by luxe separates in even luxer shades of chocolate, burgundy, gold, olive, plum, and of course, black. Double-face fabrics governed the shape of camelhair parkas, trapeze coats and beautifully-tailored jackets. The fur-lined coat, shown with a turtleneck and lean pants on Karlie Kloss, best embodied how flawlessly chic the Akris woman looks season after season. These are investment pieces, yes---but it makes a lot more sense than many collections seen this season.
Viktor & Rolf
The show was pure spectacle, but the clothes represented Viktor & Rolf's most commercial collection in recent memory---and that's a very good thing. Yes, they have Flowerbomb and that line of black dresses, but this ready-to-wear was so imminently wearable and urbanely chic that retailers would do well by expanding their offerings from these wunderkinds. The centerpieces were Kristen McMenamy and coats, with the former wearing seventeen à la fois as the designers artfully removed one each time a new model appeared on the runway. From an over-the-top fur with the boldest possible shoulders to a featherweight chiffon jewel-encrusted parka, these coats were made for wearing. There were some great pants and dresses, namely lean and spangled cocktail numbers and plenty of killer trousers.