2010 March 8
Runway Reviews: Karl Lagerfeld, Hussein Chalayan, John Galliano
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(PARIS) Karl Lagerfeld
Lagerfeld's early morning show call time was once again deceptive, thanks to the parade of hot S&M inspired latex scuba suits in black, chocolate, and silver--as well as Amanda Harlech-inspired couture dinner hair. But Karl's girl this season (or is that just any season?) was about much more than sleek bondage; she was also about seasoned trench coats, embroidered tops, and well-timed mini skirts. The collection, of course, was effortless and confident--models seemed to know their Karl script well--but even with all the latex, the brand did not seem to evolve over last few seasons in any measurable ways.
Hussein Chalayan went on an almost surrealist Puritan-Mexican American-West Bound journey for Fall that encompassed veiled sparkly columns, loud rouge ruffles, camel trenches, and some serious leather. It showed sone signs of ADD, it was distinctly unpredictable (and accompanied by the static soundtrack)--and yet Chalayan’s usual bag of surprises was refreshing. The last parade of shiny, gorgeous evening was bold, bright, and masterful. In the collection of polar opposites and Americana contrasts, a creative and jubilant Chalayan medium emerged.
This designer tirelessly pays tribute to his own particular brand of nomads, and Fall marked another adventure. This season, la femme Galliano is galloping through the mountains, sporting massive coats and skirts trimmed with mongolian lamb and ashtakran. Panier minis were worn over drop-crotch chiffon trousers, while brocade trousers were interrupted with thickly knit panels. Layers upon layers are key, but then again, Galliano took them away one by one, eventually landing at his chiffon dresses. This season, the seams were garnished with yak fur, which also appeared in metal bracelets that extended all the way up the arm. As always, this warrior is well-dressed for her journey--right down to her high-heeled hiking boots.