2012 September 13
NYFW Spring 2013: Proenza Schouler, Reed Krakoff, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, Juicy Couture
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(NEW YORK) Proenza Schouler
In 2002, Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez stormed the scene as the industry's top pick for the next big success story, and a decade later, they have a store on Madison Avenue (albeit recently), a handbag business that likely makes their European competitors weep, and an insistence on directional fashion that always manages to reinvent itself. For Spring, a mix-and-match approach to colors, materials, and textures worked brilliantly, especially when tricked out with sporty touches. Perforated leather dresses and jackets in shiny, lipsticky shades of orange red proved most memorable, but then again, so did the patchwork interpretations of a denim vest and the similarly pieced-together zip-up dress made of swatches of python, black, white, and seafoam green. A touch of scuba? Sure.
Sportif boudoir ruled the runway at Reed Krakoff on Thursday afternoon inside the sixth floor of the Skylight West building. Julianne Moore and Rachel Zoe sidelined the show, taking in the provocatively pretty assortment full of sheer mesh track jackets, layered chiffon running shorts, languid slip dresses, and perforated leather skirts in neutral tones of beige and rose. Amidst the delicate lingerie layering, a grouping of crisp, expertly tailored looks stood out. Note the chestnut jersey track pants (racing stripe included) paired with a simple white button-down and matching overcoat. The overall message: Game on!
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti assembled her springtime vision around a very simple concept: ties. But, the looks that strolled down the runway in the Plaza's Oak Room were anything but simple, or masculine for that matter. Here, the traditionally mannish staple was patchworked in ultra-vampy bustiers with figure-flattering pencil skirts and thigh skimming floral cocktail dresses. Same goes for the tailored pantsuits. Those were spliced beautifully with candy colored stripes and lush brocades--a befitting mashup for Bologna and the boardroom.
Since joining the house of Juicy, CCO and president LeAnn Nealz has made it her mission to expand their core client's wardrobe beyond luscious loungewear. The result? A more grown up, albeit still playful, arrangement of poppy separates from pastel motos and striped pencil skirts to denim jackets and boxy leather vests. A palm frond short suit combined with a simple white tee read California girl from top to bottom. Likewise, with those budding, mint PJ pants paired with a striped navy track jacket. The reworked velour suit, perhaps? We approve.