2012 September 12
NYFW Spring 2013: Dennis Basso, John Bartlett, J. Crew
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(NEW YORK) Dennis Basso
What would the week be like without a little luxe from Dennis Basso? This season, the UES darling showed his collection at a presentation on the roof of the iconic St. Regis Hotel. The format was quite a marked change for the strain of fur-punctuated, embellishment-ridden variety Basso is known for, but the unapologetic glamour factor certainly wasn't tossed in the process. The glam effect in a collection inspired by the seaside resort of Deavuille, France was achieved via sweeping tufts of ombre fringe, shiny, bubble-hemmed princess-y skirting in hues of champagne and lilac, and a generous gilding on many a piece in the collection. It's no wonder Ivana Trump, Susan Lucci and Neil Sedaka came out to support their friend. All in all? Pretty divine!
How does Bartlett maintain such staying power for so long? Sure, he's one of the nicest guys in the industry that you can't help but root for, but he continually takes his customer somewhere new, and we're always on board to see his next act. This year, his linen-focused men's collection was full of looks that took us all over the world. Structured enough to avoid frumpiness but with a breezy, toss-it-on quality that's enormously appealing come the fair temps of spring and summer, with a spry hit of patterning, of the loopy-squiggled variety, also made an appearance. "My starting point was fabrication, as always, " Bartlett told The Daily. "I wanted to start working in linen that was sustainable, eco-friendly, cruelty free as the basis, but then spring board from there. It was a travelogue from Mykonos to to Middle Eastern flavor, India." Daring? Check! Sexy? Check! Get your irons out, boys. Linen is in for spring.
In a week where we all pay attention to the luxury brands in town, J.Crew's presentation is the one sure bet that nearly every one in attendance can actually walk home with a few pieces come spring. Make some room in your closet during spring cleaning, because once again the retailer for all didn't let us down. Showing 30 women's looks and 22 men's looks, the Crew-sters kept it bright and continued to be on target with their loyal fan base. Kicky patterns were aplenty, vivid sorbet shades and variations of rose and lime hues were healthily represented, and heels came in delicious pops of robin's egg blue and cherry red. "I wanted it to be an optimistic collection," J. Crew VP of women's design Tom Mora explained to The Daily. "I love fashion, but sometimes I feel like it can get a little serious. When I started the collection, I was visiting my parent’s and looking at these old Time and Life books from the sixties and seventies and I opened up the books and the color saturation on these photographs, which at the time was high tech photography, it looked like an Instagram photo. I incorporated that feel into the prints and the patterns and that’s why you see a lot of neon in the collection."