2012 September 12
NYFW Spring 2013: Rodarte, Tory Burch, Vera Wang
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(NEW YORK) Rodarte
Calling all medieval gamers! Rodarte shed their good girl runway persona of seasons past (think Sleeping Beauty in Spring 2012 or Days of Heaven in Fall 2011) and instead, conjured up a spirited 15th-century dame, or shall we say dom, for Spring. Hence the brigade of grommeted leather leggings and oversized embossed leather jackets with plenty of fringe. As for the medieval reference, that played out in ethereal gowns cinched at the waist with a metallic corset dripping in chain metal or strapless dresses with an octogonal breast-plate at the bodice. The design duo summed up their femme fatale best backstage: "It's 2012. We don't need a knight in shining armor!"
"American prep remix" is how Tory Burch described her runway look at Lincoln Center's Avery Fisher Hall. "We were thinking about a stylish magpie who picks up special pieces while traveling around the world," read the show notes. Burch might have easily been referencing her own jet-set life. Nods to the designer's P.A. upbringing showed up in a dainty wheat print silk faille frock; New York life came through in an ombre tweed jacket and tailored wool ankle trousers; beach vacations were spotted in a calf-skimming, blue tie-dye dress. For the last leg of the tour, Burch touched down in the exotic east, witnessed in a raffia trimmed skirt and embellished crochet jacket and a white silk polo dress with ample red beading. Most notable of all? The accessories via a smattering of ornamental bohemian baubles, crafty necklaces, and printed carry-on bags.
Influenced by India, Vera Wang showcased a compelling collection brimming with texture, color, and a tunic or two. A selection of paired down tonal white looks, like a fitted cotton jacket against a swinging cotton voile skirt, served as strong openers. As the show progressed, rich, jewel-toned shades took over on lace, brocade, and printed short suits. Note the curlicue chartreuse cutaway vest and matching Bermudas, as well as the royal blue chantilly lace sheath.