2012 September 10
NYFW Spring 2013: Diane von Furstenberg, Lela Rose, Timo Weiland, Michael Bastian, Zang Toi
(NEW YORK) Diane von Furstenberg
A barrage of brights was DvF's big spring message, and it was executed by creative director Yvan Mispelaere with a singular focus. Basics-minded and trumpeting a long and lean silhouette, these easy-to-wear draped dresses came in a series of abstract prints that beg to be mixed and matched. Another hit parade from the always-directional Diane, down to the infamous "Google goggles" that graced the models, DvF herself, and the one and only Sergey Brin. Sadly, the $1,500 specs (that take photos and videos and also send texts!) are not yet available in stores—but there is lots of great-looking DvF to spend your hard-earned $ on.
Known for her girly aesthetic and work-appropriate shifts, the designer covered familiar territory in her spring collection drawing upon American artist Jim Hodges, known for his simple and colorful pieces. A contrast of lightness and mass played out in spring tweeds and Guipure lace juxtaposed with organza or silk. Though the camouflage print may have been a miss at the beginning, a particularly bright and cheery yellow sport jacket looked easy paired with a more subtle print of etched landscape. Rose dabbled in badass chain necklines, resembling a tangle of Lulu Frost-esque silver chains than a halter neck. But it worked on the rather proper hourglass sheaths, giving just enough toughness to take the look from prim to a little bit punky. Time to join Rose's chain gang!
Has someone been chaneling Isabel Marant? Beautifully-made basics with a downtown, street-savvy twist is quickly turning into Timo's beat, and his futuristic touches (silver shoes, geometric prints) added some extra fash-dash to the mix. The borderline preppy knee-grazing dresses provided the strongest story, but the evening skirt in navy duchess satin was the biggest showstopper.
Exposed chests, barely-there bathing suits, perfect-fit chinos—such are the things to expect from a Michael Bastian show. This designer specializes in the kind of dressed-down classics (rendered in exquisite cuts and superlative fabrics) that every guy can appreciate. Slouchy, toss-on cardigans were especially groovy—and likely worthy of the man in your life.
Thanks to a little help from his muse Julie Macklowe—who, by the way, is the designer's first official one after twenty-plus years in the business—Toi has enhanced his oeuvre. His usual palette of black and white has benefitted greatly from an infusion of pastels—ones that would go especially well against a red carpet. The short-in-front, long-in-back look feels especially fresh, and will likely prove popular with the gamine Macklowe-esque ladies in waiting for one of his statement gowns.