2012 September 10
NYFW Spring 2013: Zac Posen, Tracy Reese, Chado Ralph Rucci, Carlos Campos, A Detacher
(NEW YORK) Zac Posen
At an alfresco showing studded with catwalk heavyweights (Naomi Campbell, Karolina Kurkova, and Posen pal Crystal Renn), the designer opted for a slew of for-fitting skirts and flouncy hem that one has come to expect from the designer, almost entirely comprised of dresses, and topped with strapless bustiers necklines, some sculpted and unadorned, other sporting elaborate knotting details, lots of intricate embroidery. The bulk of it was nothing was especially new for him, as Posen referenced silhouettes that we’ve seen time and time again, but he nails it so perfectly right each time, it's more than OK. The V seaming that is Zac signature appeared on the backs of dresses, lifting the derriere and flattering the figure just so, in a slew of heavy satins and silks, many of which were the palette was creamy and romantic, with rose pinks, peachy neutrals, lemons, and ivory interspersed with a dip into teal territory with a few hibiscus prints. The glamour factor extended to the accouterments, of course, including tortoise shell cat-eye glasses and David Webb jewels, in the form of drop diamond earrings and choker necklaces with emeralds so large it was almost a distraction (in a good way). Posen can even lure the supposedly off-duty-for-a-season onto a runway, as was the case with the Coco Rocha closer, bedecked in a white organza tiered ball gown.
After Mrs. Obama took center stage in a celebrated Reese number at the DNC convention last week, all eyes are on the established designer again. No need to worry about Michelle's closet for spring. It's all taken care of! Boxier cuts, funkier-than-usual patterns, and cool (as usual) use of color hit Reese's runway (melon and tomato paired together harmoniously, anyone?). In the mix: retro-kitschy floral pattern one could imagine splashed on curtains or a couch circa the sixties, done in those same sunny hues. Hair was mussed and very side swept, oversized, thickframed specs lent edge up top, and ankles got ringed with colorful fringe-trimmed shoes for a bit of easy-wear flair.
Chado Ralph Rucci
How does one achieve a poppy and punchy vibe with the ladylike silhouettes to keep things from getting tarty and the craftsmanship to awe. Awash with a delicious shade of bubblegum pink, the typical domain of Barbie got classed up in A-line day dresses, threaded through a number of looks (a patent belt here, slim plastic piping, a satin layer underneath peeking out from under a voluminous black gown...), and in a fit of pure fun, done in a ostrich feathered minidress resembling a neon petri dish specimen. Plenty of vivid orange and lemon made appearances, including a lovely, electric-looking frock with a flouncy skirt in a buttercream hue and a saturated zigzag of yellow trim. Slicked back hair and purple and blue eyeshadow complimented Rucci's bold looks. Also of note: a patent-trimmed finale gown, sporting a sumptuous, hand painted satin skirt.
Color blocking is far from extinct, at least in the menswear realm. Carlos Campos' presentation at MADE featured a continuous loop of male models walking out and posing in bright, straight shirt and pant combinations that didn’t fuss around with extraneous details. A juicy green came trotting out as a button down and flat-front pants, with a hint of a cuff and exposed ankle, while blue-on-blue made a few cameous, sometimes mixing it up with shorts or a sports jacket. The only print or hint of pattern were a few looks with white dots splattered rather randomly. The Campos guy is fashionable and put together, sure, if not too wild.
For Spring, it's all about twists and turns at A Detacher. Designer Mona Kowalska opened with bright cotton poplin T shirt dresses, sporting perfectly placed scrunching at the hip for a bit of shape. There was also a halter seemingly inspired by by overalls, a bit of black leather breaking up the poppy red, navy, and caramel palette of colors. Knitwear played a minor role, too, with a few cocoon-sleeved tops and cardis belted for shape. She delved into prints later on; an evergreen treeline print in white on cerulean blue backdrop made things a little foresty. The pieces feel quite fitting, for whatever reason, for a jaunt to a Scandinavian country or something of the sort.