2012 September 11
NYFW Spring 2013: Belstaff, Reem Acra, Karen Walker, Ohne Titel
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(NEW YORK) Belstaff
Seemingly on everyone’s radar these days, after the intimate breakfast at Barney’s that Belstaff hosted about a month ago with Simon Doonan, the relaunch has been abuzz with a sexy fall campaign and a new Madison Avenue flagship store. Held in the IAC Building, the brand's NYFW debut aimed to recapture the romanticism of global travel, “that time when moving from one point to another was all about pure luxury,” Martin Cooper, the brand's chief creative officer, told The Daily. This translated into a collection based on toffees, creams, military greens, and saddle browns. The jacket was the collection's staple, starting with the first look's linen style. The beauty is in the details, and Cooper has always stressed his interest in creating clothes that flex and bend where the body moves. Thus elbows and shoulders feature curved seaming trimmed in leather. lending flexibility to the trou. Oversized cotton canvas pants were glammed up with real python detailing at the waist. One probably wouldn’t come to Belstaff for a silk dress, but the georgette tank dresses in nude or stripes would certainly pack well in a weekender. Grounded by ankle strap wedges and roomy leather totes Belstaff's N.Y. debut underscored the notion that travel can (and should!) be luxurious.
On the short list of designers that can really bring it in glamorous gown territory, there is certainly a place for Acra. Opening, a bit surprisingly, with a refined take on the motorcycle jacket fancied up with laser cut sequin detailing, the vibe then segued into Acra's formal wear forte. Evening wear has taken on a multitude of meanings over the years, like tuxedos and jumpsuits. A woman in a perfectly tailored tuxedo and satin shawl like in this particular case, rocks a certain type of confidence that is so enviable. While Acra does full-length, classic elegance with aplomb, she also tried out the dressy tuxedo as well as a pajama-inflected number polished off with a tassel-y fringed belt and crystal beading, rendering the effect less Hugh Hefner and more Parisian mistress. As for the stream of gowns that closed the show, there were gold beaded shimmery frocks, red hand-embroidered variations, and a gasp-worthy finale of fuchsia and nude frothiness that positively floated by. Spectacular!
Space age, intergalactic, fifties stay-at-home mom; cashmere coveteur. All the above describe the spring collection that Karen Walker dreamt up. With a front row packed with all the chic-kid bloggers (ie. Rumi of Fashion Toast, Bryanboy, and Susie Bubble) e clothes are undoubtedly going to have a heavy dash of not-so-seriousness that keeps the cool-hunting alive and well. Of course, Walker's signature sunnies graced the runway in a variety of hues and funky shapes. The clothes were whimsical, like jacquard blazers, pants paired with tall straw hats, and patent pink loafers. There were references to the fifties, too, via short, tight angora sweaters in baby pink sprinkled with large white polka dots. Something very Betty Draper, only Walker paired it with a damask pants and some seriously Jetson-inspired patent booties. The intergalactic wars raged on with a sweatshirt t-shirt (talk about comfort, no?) with blue moon rocks printed on the front and copper sleeves for a dash of shine. Per usual, Walker knows how to have fun, and don't we love her for it.
Ohne Titel Artists inspiring artists: ‘tis the way the industry works. The Ohne Titel girls are having a Karl Wirsum moment for spring, using the artist's “playful visual language” as a starting point for prints and motifs. But let’s start from the ground up, literally: the perforated leather sandal heels (crisp white and blue, or tan and black, combos) might be the best Spring '13 shoes we’ve seen yet, sporting solid heels and just enough peekaboo skin in the leather to be sexy. Sharp rhombus-shaped cuffs and rings designed by Helveta Vyotlag took the cake. The show opened with turquoise, black, and white knit dresses in snug fits, then transitioned into leather perforation as the main material. Also of note: the mesh slouch pants, done in a tapered black style with some seriously sexy see-through mesh pockets, thus reminding us why seeing less is always sexier. There was a cross between The Great Gatsby and tennis apparel in the black and white knit stripe dress with a drop waist and flared skirt.