OTHER COLLECTIONS BY: Derek Lam
2012 September 10
NYFW Spring 2013: DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, Derek Lam, Thakoon, Skaist-Taylor, Y-3
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(NEW YORK) DKNY
Ask Donna Karan what a New Yorker is, and she'll gladly tell you it's "someone who's ready for anything" rain or shine, day or night. "Just give her the elements, and she'll take it from there," read the show notes. That's where Karan comes in. On the catwalk, she delivered the goods that make up the foundation for every urbanite's wardrobe: washed denim, white shirting, little black dresses, a taxi cab yellow anorak, and a hands-free beltbag, otherwise known as a fanny pack. And we can't forget Karan's jean jumpsuit (See: look six in the lineup). The quietly cool number breathed new life into a tired trend with a clever move we like to call the pull, roll, and tuck. That's the scientific name, of course.
Tommy Hilfiger claimed a stretch of The Highline Sunday night for a patriotic Spring 2013 salute to the U. S. of A. Kimora Lee Simmons, Russell Simmons, Jessica Stam, actress Hailee Steinfeld, and more gathered on the elevated tracks under candlelit lanterns to witness a tidy array of classic Americana fare done right in nautical striped silk suiting, trapeze maxis with braided rope straps, and perfectly preppy collegiate blazers teamed with patchwork linen trousers—all outfitted in Hilfiger's favorite color combo of red, white, and blue. Who's ready for election day?
Derek Lam served up a winning cocktail of seventies-inspired silhouettes to his sportswear loving muse this season, following his preoccupation with painter Barkley L. Hendricks' Philly city portraits of the same era. To start, there were swinging jersey dresses, over-the-knee macrame or leather skirts, plaid separates, and relaxed shifts aplenty in a warm color palette centered around moss, mustard, and berry with a touch of blue. Later, one of Lim's covetable coats made a grand appearance, but not in the form you're accustomed to, darlings. Here the traditional trench was actually cut in half, in a two-piece configuration with a button-front khaki skirt and relaxed jacket—our raison d'etre come March.
Thakoon Panichgul has found himself in a dreamy state of mind lately, and based on the reaction from the front row, Christina Ricci included, that's not a bad place to be. Pourquoi? First, and foremost, those sweetly elegant aviary motifs found on birdcage print silk duchesse cocktail dresses and hummingbird embroidered jackets. From there, the designer made his way to "wallpaper floral" knits, collaged tees, cotton shirt dresses, crepe de chine slips, and a lacy gown with filigree jacquard caging for the finale. All in all, it was one of Thakoon's finest hours.
Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor didn't have to travel far for their Spring inspiration. The founding Juicy Couture designers, and California habitues, referenced The Troubadour this season, a singer-songwriter watering hole on Santa Monica Boulevard made famous in the seventies by regulars like Carol King and Elton John. "It was a beautiful, authentic time full of pot-smoking moments with James Taylor," said Skaist-Levy. How did that translate on the runway? With a bounty of la vie boheme via natural curls out to play (the bigger, the better), some major lace-up boot sandals, and luxe hippie garb: eyelet skirts, peasant frocks, fringed leather motos, and ostrich plume jackets. "You know, California is the Wild West—anything goes!" added Skaist-Levy. And she means it. The McKittrick Hotel's Skylight rooftop, where the presentation was held Sunday morning, was converted into an old timey saloon, complete with bottles of whiskey and bowls of limes as take-one-and-pass-it centerpieces on the editors' tables. "We know you're all swamped during Fashion Week. Did everyone get a shot? We want to make sure you're all having a good time. Fashion is fun!" said Skaist-Levy. Indeed.
Bonne anniversaire, Y-3! Yohji Yamamoto celebrated his decade-long Adidas collaboration with a full house this weekend, including front row devotees David Beckham, Michael Stipe, A$AP Rocky, Anton Yelchin, Isabel Lucas, and Lupe Fiasco, to name a few. "I really appreciate the fact that Adidas had the vision 10 years ago to team up with Yohji," said Beckham in a press release. "Y-3 is a perfect fusion of sport and fashion absolutely pioneering." This season, guests enjoyed a retrospective of sorts, or as Mr. Yamamoto puts it, a "backward walk into the future." For instance, neutral voluminous shapes from mesh anoraks and oversized soccer shorts to ruffled dresses made an appearance, as did Adidas' signature 3-stripe logo and a smattering of neon acid prints. Yamamoto called upon Japan's imperial printmaker, Mr. Hayashi, for that task; the two previously teamed up for Y-3's 2003 debut. "My desire was and still is to make sportswear elegant and chic," said Mr. Yamamoto backstage. "With Y-3, we created something that did not exist before. After 10 years, we are falling in love with the three stripes once more."