2012 September 9
NYFW Spring 2013: Prabal Gurung, Ruffian, VPL, Monique Lhuillier, Lacoste
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(NEW YORK) Prabal Gurung
Now officially on the cal as one of the hautest shows of the week, Prabal Gurung riffed on familiar motifs for his Spring 2013 collection—digital prints, maribou feathers, and shorts, shorts, shorts! No matter what this designer does, it's dressy as hell, and polished in a signature downtown fashion. "The Prabal girl is intelligent and extremely aware," the designer said backstage. "The idea of ease" was a trademark—"a new sensuality that is not conforming to the body, but moving away from the body." Although he riffed on black and white, especially in a gamine frock on Hanne, it was the colorful pieces, like the last crimson look, that packed the most punch. Expect to see it—or something similar—at the Emmys.
Brian Wolk and Claude Morais have a ladylike sensibility that's always transposed through a Brooklyn-esque lens—they live in Williamsburg, after all. Always hellbent on surprise, their Spring collection was toile-centric, in charming shades of baby pink and blue. "Baroque was counterbalanced with minimalism, street style was juxtaposed with runway, and luxury fabrics were cut into classic American utilitarian shapes to create an exciting dialogue which spans and connects various generations and aesthetic sensibilities," Wolk explained. (And what a mouthful!) He also referenced rockabilly culture, but that undercurrent must have been minor, because these ensembles will look right at home at le Meurice along with Brooklyn Bowl.
Victoria Bartlett's girl is both universal and particular—you'll see scads of girls from all walks of life allowing one of her bra straps to peek out underneath a tank, but then again, they all share a street chic style mentality. Her directional Spring collection featured her usual sporty touches and draped dresses, but with a focus on knits and stripes that felt particularly fresh. Cropped, open-weave sweaters played nicely with floor-grazing bubble-hem skirts, while her sexy smattering of swimwear is likely to have the chic set requesting pre-orders. The last looks, comprised of some molded white knit pieces, proved that this designer's mastery of her craft goes far beyond the bra and panty lines she so loves.
Her publicist is on the speeddial of every stylist in Hollywood, and with each passing season, it seems like Lhuillier has become America's answer to couturier Elie Saab. Her lady-loving gowns, decked out in layers of chiffon and peekaboo lace, are just part of the appeal, however—a focus on daywear and going-out dresses are especially appealing. Ditto for the digital black and white print that governed some of her best looks, including a skinny pant with a matching peplum top.
Eighty years of Le Croc you say? That's the celebration as well as the starting point that creative director Felipe Baptista cited for his latest Lacoste collection. Lincoln Center's Theater venue was transformed into a multi-tiered runway as models descended from backstage and into the crowd. To start, a clean, all-white number in crisp white poplin; basically something to hit the steamy NYC summer streets in (fall, too, as we're experiencing!) and not melt in. Leather in hues of sky blue and deep green, peppered with subtle embossed crocodiles, particularly cool as a men's funnel collar coat. Can we hide from April showers in that thing, s'il vous plait? The second element, that ubiquitous racket print, blanketed the run of show as well as silk racer back tanks and long, lean pants. Encore, encore!