2012 September 9
NYFW Spring 2013: Alexander Wang, Edun, Marlon Gobel, Christian Siriano, Tibi
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(NEW YORK) Alexander Wang
It wasn't just the blacklit rave-y finale that lent a futuristic-trippy aura to Alexander Wang's latest showing. In a stringent palette of B&W, Wang tooled around with myriad shift silhouettes, all laced with undulating peeks of flesh thanks to some expertly pieced-together paneling proffering a very floaty effect. Some sported exaggeratedly rounded athletic shoulders evoking football garb, while others took the study in sharp fragmentation even further, with angular glimpses of skin and a sleeker skim of the body. Coifs and faces got a standard-issue Wang stark treatment, rife with flat strands, harsh center parts, and practically bare visages (all the easier to focus on the clothes, not like that was an issue). Puzzling as those electrical tape-meets-minimalist bindi details on said center parts were, their purpose was illuminated (literally) when the lights dropped completely on a series of Wang's white-clad mods, frocks, hairlines, and strap-happy shoes aglow. Also on display: a few odd, glossy duck bill-esque chapeaus and a duo of textured, superboxy silver toppers, breaking up the fluid consistency of the show's cut-paper snowflake effect on many a look. Wang's play on negative space made a few things clear: a sliver of skin somehow speaks louder than any piping, and most if not all other riffs on cutouts will pale in comparison.
Loose layers, hip-slung trou galore, and oodles of jacket options, primarily focused in the trench and bomber silhouette realms, amounted to a city-tripping nomadic wardrobe at Edun. Army green and cantaloupe took center stage on the color wheel. Adding a smidgeon of sex appeal to the draped, oversized layers providing a foundation for the collection: hardware-trimmed bralettes left and right, plus ankle-anchoring heels and flats, cagelike in design, in black or nude. The patterns didn't quite hit the mark, erring on the side of unremarkable and none too memorable, but those topper options plus the nicely done knits dispersed throughout certainly compensated.
By now we've all gotten to the point where we know that Siriano isn't going anywhere, so let's all move on from Project Runway and face the facts that his customers love him. As they should! This season, Siriano took us to the ballet in his best collection to date. "It was whimsy, girly, all of the above," an exhausted Siriano said apres show. "I wanted it to be pretty lady. We’ve had such an edgy few years and I like the idea of women getting dressed up and getting a little more pretty; that’s what my customer was asking for." Culling inspiration from The Dream ballet, performed by ABT, the palette included pastel shades of pink, a helping of seafoam, and some grey. LBD and navy obsessives will have to branch out to don Siriano's latest, but for Spring, that's not such a bad thing! As one major buyer told The Daily before the show, "My customers love him because they like to play dress up, and he knows how to do dress up." Indeed he does.
The crop top, the influx of superfaded denim separates, the peplum, the leather done in a smorgasbord of silhouettes: yep, Tibi is yet again a veritable trend dispensary! Minis abounded, whether in mod, curvaceously-hemmed form or in a wisp of a chartreuse micropleated number (topped with a black leather peplumed shell, comprising perhaps the collection's standout look). There was lots of LBC options on offer, punctuated by breezy long sleeved blouse, stiff collarless cream frocks, and plenty of flouncy skirting throughout. A few boxy T's were also of note, including a dusty rose knit number and an intricately-worked ivory eyelet variation. Making the easy-to-parse-out parade of trendy sweet spot hitting elements even sweeter? The attainable price points, of course.
After stints working for Michael Bastian and Thom Browne, Gobel truly came into his own this season showing his Spring collection at Detail's first sponsored collection gallery, held at Lincoln Center's New York Public Library. He's creating menswear looks that are unlikely to appeal to pop types, but certainly has the power to make an influence on pop culture. His theme this season was "The Stars" and former "star" Paris Hilton sat front row (Did he just make her cool again?) with a runway show dedicated to Neil Armstrong. "I gave you something to see!" Gobel explained after the show. "It was a little cheeky. Let’s have some fun. You can get khakis anywhere." As one of the more adventurous designers on the block these days, Gobel continues to be one to watch.