2012 September 9
NYFW Spring 2013: Marissa Webb, Joseph Altuzarra, Boy. by Band of Outsiders, Rebecca Taylor
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(NEW YORK) Marissa Webb
After an 11-year stint as J.Crew's head womenswear designer, Marissa Webb branched out on her own this weekend, debuting her eponymous womenswear collection at Lincoln Center on Saturday morning. On display? 20 curated looks consisting of feminine silhouettes tinged with a subtle tomboyish slant. Pops of color showed up nicely in casual workwear, from a chartreuse suit to a monochrome cherry bow blouse, but talk in The Box centered around Webb's 12 black and white looks, most notably a crisp, cotton-linen pantsuit, and black leather biker shorts combined with an embroidered mock turtleneck blouse and white dinner jacket. "There’s always that contradiction and mixture of high and low, strong and soft," said Webb in a studio sit-down before her launch. "That’s the inspiration for Spring and the foundation for the line."
Sally Porter's gender swapping 1992 cult classic film, Orlando, lit the spark that set Joseph Altuzarra on a quest to explore the "tension between masculine and feminine" this season by pushing the boundaries of embroidery and reworking historically masculine shapes into feminine silhouettes. For example, utilitarian jackets became sophisticated capes with strategically placed vented arm holes, while striped cotton blazers transformed into fitted peplum suit tops. The CFDA Swarovski Award-winning designer also showed off his expertise in all things that sparkle with draped and bejeweled silk trousers and glinting dresses embellished with Swarovski beads, draped elegantly with silk scarves or gold fringe, and topped off with over-the-knee gladiator boots. The consensus from the front row: encore!
Boy. By Band of Outsiders
"I was watching Hunger Games, and I thought it was so bad yet insatiably entertaining," said Scott Sternberg about his point of reference for Spring. "But then I watched the film it's supposedly based off of, the Japanese horror film Battle Royale, and it got me thinking about the notion of war and battle." Thankfully, Sternberg's narrative was more lyrical and less sanglant as his troupe of mods marched out in transparent macrame knits and patchwork bandeaus on top and slouchy drawstring pants or Shibori over-dyed skirts on bottom. Sternberg's calling card, the ubiquitous school yard blazer, was spun into a neat Sgt. Pepper sequel with epaulets and knotted buttons. Those military references worked best with cinched khakis and strappy leather ankle sandals in collaboration with Manolo Blahnik.
What happens when your jet-set summer vacation turns into a stay-cation in the city? You may find yourself designing a island collection, immersed in a TV marathon of Hawaii 5-0, or all the above—that is, if you're Rebecca Taylor. "I was here in New York all summer, but I was wishing I was in Hawaii, so there's an urban feel with aspects of tropical mixed in," explained Taylor backstage. Cue the polka dot bralette under a turquoise leather moto. Or the array of bleached denim separates twinned with faded Hawaiian floral shirts. "One of my prints is even called Hawaii 5-0!" added Taylor in a whisper. "I didn't write that on the program because I thought it would age me!" Au contraire. Taylor's girlie girl is as young and carefree as ever.