2012 September 7
NYFW Spring 2013: Honor, Creatures of The Wind, Chadwick Bell, Monika Chiang
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(NEW YORK) Honor
It seems only fitting that medical student turned designer Giovanna Randall kicked off Spring with a lesson in human anatomy, n'est-ce pas? That macrame trim on silk blouses? An homage to the spinal cord. How about the cocktail dresses with symmetrical string caging at the back? A nod to the rib cage, of course! More subtle forms of inspiration played out in a cluster of transparent party frocks from a white organza gown with a nude corset peeking through the bodice to a neon green floral tea dress with microsparkle cap sleeves highlighting the shoulders. You know what they say: A new dress a day, keeps the pain away...or something like that.
Creatures of The Wind
Last season, Shane Gabier and Chris Peters took a inspirational page out of the seventeenth century tome The Secret Commonwealth of Elves, Fauns, and Fairies (a Times best-seller, no doubt), but for Spring, the Chicago duo refrained from the mystical marvels for a more mainstream approach: sixties couture. And with couture, comes technique. Case in point: A black hand-loomed cotton and plastic raffia structured vest atop an oatmeal silk organza and cotton skirt festooned with hand embroidered Swarovski crystals. Or a marigold and pink silk chiffon textured corset dress with butterfly applique. Tailored jacquard trousers and boxy jackets in blue, pink, and green, along with a swinging coat or two, rounded out the retro selection. But it was the opening ecru cotton canvas blazer patchworked with snake print poly lame and leather that had us at hello.
"The Chadwick Bell girl was crazy and out of her box for Fall 2012," said Chadwick Bell to The Daily pre-show. "This season, she’s on a crusade for clarity. Maybe it’s paralleling with my life!" With that in mind, a palette-cleansing parade waltzed out onto the runway with mods sporting clean, elegant silhouettes in neutral tones, from floaty white ethereal dresses to sophisticated separates, like a black and nude leather blocked jacket paired with a silk georgette blouse and slim black trousers. Need a burst of color on occasion? Pas de problème! Take your pick between a standout emerald green gown, golden lace suiting, or a sleek pink palm dress and jacket duo. If this is Bell's "Nirvana" collection, consider us enlightened, darlings.
A bit of South African sojourn, a dose of sportif detailing, and some glitz for good measure. Such was the recipe for Monika Chiang's latest, an exotic urban safari where windbreaker-esque minis mingled with heavily beaded tanks, inspired by Chiang's recent journey to South Africa (hence the melon and jungle green shades, the designer told The Daily). Given all the ruggedly adventurous inflections, The Daily wondered about Chiang's spirit animal. "Something exotic, slinky, graceful, and elegant like a panther or an Egyptian mountain cat," said Chiang. Also of note: it was hard to pull one's attention away from the shoes, as stingray, chains, and chunky platformed wedges ruled down below.