2012 September 7
NYFW Spring 2013: BCBG, Richard Chai, KImberly Ovitz, Costello Tagliapietra
(NEW YORK) BCBG
Husband and wife team Max and Lubov Azria's latest point of inspiration for spring, Helmut Newton's black and white photography, lent stark lines, overt sexiness, and a generous dose of harnessed action.. "It’s all very seductive this season," Mrs. Azria told The Daily before the show. "We wanted to give a different message." Looks like that message was received, via piecey lace and sculptural amalgams of shapes, patchworked together with aplomb. A touch of negligee (cue the lacy bandeaus and transparent paneling of flimsy, pretty fabrications) got sassed up with strong lines and underscored by the quiet, clean impact of working primarily in B&W with smidges of tangerine on occasion.
Inspired by Almagul Menibayeva's belief that you can create your own mythology, Ovitz studied the Kazakhstani performance artist's contemporary images that held ritualistic connotations.The result? A mellow palette rife with alluringly-termed neutrals (think eggshell, ice, paper, dark nude, thunder, and optic white) and pops of emerald. The wash of whites had an almost-glowing quality to them, offset by thick silver bangles anchored high on the biceps, some sporting wide collar-like chokers to bring the bling full-circle as well. "I wanted it to look really nomadic, so the clay was an idea that we came up with; models walked out with bare feet," Ovitz explained to The Daily. Perhaps we'll skip the barefoot action, but that artful layering and underlying breeziness are certainly urbane-nomad apropos.
Richard Chai Love
A coed pastel-hued parade that included, for the lads, lots of suiting (plenty of dusty cornflower blue!), some taupes, and tons of white. The women's looks mainly fell into two camps: athetically-oriented, rife with zippers and some odd, above-the-knee bermudas; or flippy, brief-hemmed frockage heavy on the floral prints and crop tops. "Coming off last fall which was much more androgynous and inspired by men’s tailoring and that boy/girl thing, this season I wanted to do just the opposite and do something bold and sexy, but at the same time really graphic. That was important to me!" Chai told The Daily. "You see nylon, mixed with silk or cotton; I wanted something that felt fresh and light hearted."
New York's favorite plaid-donning, bear-esque deisgn duo turned out a ruching-happy collection at MADE, with sweety cinched shifts on the solid end of the spectrum (those blush hues were quite delicate in particular), asymmetrical necklines, and a few recurrent patterns. "It was about that moment of falling in love," Costello expains. "We wanted all the fabrics to have some kind of movement, and that’s why the hair was down. We wanted to evoke that feeling of subtle movement that caresses and moves around the body." Thanks to the boys for bringing back the appeal of that one-exposed-shoulder, when it's said ruching softly framing it. The M.O. is pretty here, and we're into it.