2011 September 15
Spring 2012: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Chado Ralph Rucci, Elie Tahari, Jeremy Scott
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(NEW YORK) 3.1 Phillip Lim
Sherbet tones have been scooped up by many a designer showing at NYFW for Spring. But at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the effect was served with a fresh dose of minimalism, sans saccharine undertones and frilly embellishments. This season, Lim modeled his signature sportswear after kites, a childhood fancy, seen in breezy blouses, paper-thin anoraks, and a slew of slip dresses. Sportif silhouettes also made a strong showing, playing harmoniously alongside his airy elements. Warm-up trousers were elevated with a touch of silk, and baggy basketball shorts were given a nouveau spin in wide-leg mesh inseam culottes. Lims post-show message was clear: Let the games begin.
Chado Ralph Rucci
Returning to his Lincoln Center outpost, Chado Ralph Rucci staged a mega-watt runway production, humming to the tunes of Maurice Ravel’s “Bolero.” Loyal front rowers like Whoopie Goldberg, Iris Apfel, and Carmen Dell'Orefice watched in awe as models glided down the white lacquered runway in neoprene coats with cocoon sleeves, neutral wool crepe suiting (replete with plastic cuffs, chord embroidery, and crystal beading), and a bevy of eveningwear befitting Rucci’s upper echelon clientele. The show-stoppers: A layered tulle party dress accented with wispy feathers, a moody printed caftan, fitted caviar-beaded trousers, and a glitzy silver liquid jumpsuit. A standing O for Monsieur Rucci.
Fioba Cibani decided to show her spring collection at the NY Public Library ("a dream") because of her love of books and architecture, "I have always been a library girl. I own a few homes and each one has a huge library. It's the most important room in every home I own. I was inspired by a book of a French artist, Xavier Veihlan, and I fell in love with his sculptures and how they were geometric, yet fluid at the same time." As for the collection: "I was thinking geometrics, sculptural, distorted, embellishments. I didn't want that classic embellishment. The architectural DNA within the Ports Spring/Summer 2012 collection conveys a modern, linear silhouette--its sharp, geometric lines influencing both construction and shape. The stark white and black palette is juxtaposed with neutrals and punctuated with futuristic elements. Fragmented glass, mirrored mosaics and iridescent shine express a kaleidoscopic prism of light," said Cibani.
One of the highlights of the week was Elie Tahari's collection at the tents, styled by none other than Joe Zee (well done, mister!), for his divine collection inspired by Egypt and early 1900's silhouettes. Tahari's a seasonal red carpet staple as evident by the gold gowns, burnt coral cocktail dresses, and airy aqua silk dresses slit-to-there for Spring 2012. As for all those afternoon lunches on your social calendar? Editrixes are already phoning chez Tahari for the exaggerated long blazers, metallic to-the-knee pharaoh sandals, sheer harems and a black dress or two.
The Beverly Hillbillies go to Hollywood was the overarching (and over-the-top) theme at Jeremy Scott. And why not? Scott’s hallmark is all about unexpected party looks tinged with a little look-at-me pizzazz. A mashup of cheeky prints turned heads this season from cactus and cowhide to flames and question marks. A pair of bubblegum pink chaps atop cow-print cutoffs and crop tops was all Scott, all the way. As you can imagine, some looks were more wearable than others. Slinky silk handkerchief toppers, striped jean pencil skirts, denim rompers, platform MJs, and beachy shifts emblazoned with “Greetings from Paradise” fit the bill.