2011 September 14
Spring 2012: Theyskens' Theory, Francesc by Frank Tell, Sophie Theallet, Bibhu Mohapatra
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(NEW YORK) Theyskens' Theory
Uptown crystal embroidered jackets and downtown double-waistband slouchy jeans. That was the formula for Theyskens’ Theory Spring 2012, an impressive street-smart showing from Olivier Theyskens. “I wanted to do looks for cool girls. It’s not a look for an actress,” clarified the raven-haired Frenchman. “It’s a look for the rock and roll girls on the street.” That look included drop-crotch denim balanced with tweed jackets and gritty knit cardis, along with knit mini dresses, a black grosgrain backless gown, and casual short ‘n’ jacket combos, all of which were offset with the newest silhouette to hit denim—the faux sag, slouch jean with a double waistband. But, don’t confuse them with the pair in your boyfriend’s closet. “It’s not her boyfriend’s jeans. It’s hers. I like when my jeans fall a little bit, but I don’t like when you see underwear so these jeans stay on the body and silhouette nicely but still give you that low-slung feeling." After a series of early career setbacks, Theyskens has finally found his calling at Theory.
Francesc by Frank Tell
Frank Tell may be young (24!), but his Francesc by Frank Tell collection was all grown up. “My inspiration for Spring stemmed from something raw and erotic,” explained the young prodigy, who has designed five successful collections since 2007 under his eponymous line, Frank Tell. This new direction was a step forward for the designer who wanted to offer his growing customer-base a more luxe, ornamental line. Yesterday morning, Spring saw Fall’s exotic skins reimagined with raw-edged alligator motos (a Tell staple) and sheer crème python and lace zip jackets. His multi-yarn knits were reworked into white or black body-skimming sweaters with sexy back cut-outs and swinging fishtail skirts. Similarly, sheer lace peplum suiting got a touch of naughty with tie-up detailing at the waist or elbow. “Persistence pays off,” said Tell backstage. “I’ve always wanted to be a designer and I’ve finally made it.”
Bad girl sexpot Bonnie Parker played muse to Sophie Theallet for Fall, but the quintessentially French designer had her eye on the 1969 film, La Piscine, this season. As expected, there was no shortage of playful dresses, Theallet’s bread and butter. An electric bright tangerine and turquoise cutout gown opened the show followed by a suit of like-printed floor-dusters and their shorter daywear counterparts. Color-blocked silk camis and office-ready shirtdresses also made a strong showing, alongside pleated belly-button skimming skirts and relaxed day-or-night trousers. From board meetings to the boardwalk, Theallet has it covered.
Late '70s and early '80s poloroids from Helmut Newton offered Bibhu Mohapatra a starting point for Spring’s elegant undertaking. “Newton’s woman and my woman have the same sense of confidence and I wanted to showcase that with a lot of sheer inserts, utilizing the skin as an accessory,” shared the designer at his presentation. In the eveningwear category, where Mohapatra shines best, floor-sweeping gowns (washed in lavender, tangerine, azure, and fresh pink) were adorned with asymmetrical crystal straps, floral embroidery, and a soft chain-link motifs. A lavender crepe gown with silver detailing and sheer inset skirt capitalized on the Newton-Mohapatra confidence and set the tone for red carpet dressing. Ditto for the ultra pink dress with cutout shoulders and bone chiffon cummerbund. Broadening his repertoire this season, the purveyor of nighttime dressing crafted superb mix and match medlies from satin camis and pleated mousseline gypsy pants to tailored gabardine trousers paired with a lavender crepe blouse and kid suede tux jacket. Flawless as always.