2011 September 12
Spring 2012: Zac Posen, Simon Spurr, Carlos Campus, Cut25, Timo Weiland, Jeremy Laing
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(NEW YORK) Zac Posen
“Stupendous!” clapped a jubilant Andre Leon Talley backstage at Zac Posen Spring 2012. ALT’s sentiments reverberated throughout the crowd of well-wishers at Lincoln Center, including Mom and “Daddy” Posen. After a year in Paris, the designer has returned home with a heavy-hitting collection that upped the ante on opulence. The venue: Avery Fisher Hall at sunset. The front row: Leigh Lezark and Kelly Osbourne. The look: Drame to the nth degree. Contrary to his streamlined daywear for Fall 2011, Spring at chez Posen was all about nighttime glamour. Longtime model and muse Coco Rocha kicked off the show with a signature nipped waisted fishtail frock in biscotti. Following suit were a slew of cinched-waist, retro-y jackets with high-waisted pencil skirts, flirty party dresses (some in floral, others in transparent cord embroidery), and an impressive lineup of floor-sweeping gowns in Posen’s infamous, body-hugging silhouette. Adding to the elegance factor were made-with-love detailing from corset bodices to sweeping trains--fitting for the extra-long outdoor runway. “After ten years, I wanted to have a return to elegance,” smiled Posen post-show. “And going to Paris gave me a reflection on who I could be in America.”
The recent CFDA men's designer nominee showed his Spring collection at MADE, and continued to break down the walls in men's fashion. Not only did Spurr consult on Tommy Hilfiger's men's collection this season, but he managed to create his fourth collection with his own standpoint that proved why he is the one to watch for the guys. With all eyes on Prabal Gurung in the women's world, Spurr is the contender in the men's world this week as the front runner in his field. "The first part of the collection is an evolution of how we finished fall: the brand is known for tailoring, stripes, graphics, so how do you do that in a new way? It transitioned into modern country elegance." I come from a tiny village in the middle of nowhere, so it was tapping back into that and blurring the lines between city dressing and country dressing. Fashion caters to the man living in the city, but doesn't cater to the man at the estate in the country. That was our focus. We continued what we started a few seasons ago." It's not a question of if he'll become a household name, but when, because we're expecting that to happen any second.
Another designer for the boys is recent Vogue/CFDA Fund nominee Carlos Campos, who showed his eighteen piece men's collection at MADE on Sunday. Campos drew on the ethnic vibrancy of the Aztec, Mayan, and Inca cultures for his current men's collection with coral red, golden yellow, royal blue prints to give a fresh take on utilitarian workwear. The shirting options came in solids, stripes, and South American inspired prints. When's the official start of spring, again? The sooner the better, in order to score this bevy of exuberant looks.
It's safe to say that every woman in fashion wants a piece of Yigal Azrouel, but most will just have to settle for his clothes. Luckily, the designer's contemporary line, Cut25, launched last year, is still allowing everybody to get in on the action. The designer showed 25 new looks over the weekend that channeled '80s surfer culture, conveyed via electric colors, techno-washed fabrics and multi-dimensional layering. "I had a lot of customers that wanted to buy my product, but couldn't afford it." Cut25 will open its doors in Soho this spring. So when you compliment your assistant on her look next year, here's a hunch as to where she's been shopping.
There's this undeniably good feeling about what Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein, who design by day and DJ by night, and their first runway show at Lincoln Center was simply visual music to the eyes. The duo presented 37 men and women's looks for spring, including shapely tapestry-splashed coats in shades of navy streaked with teals and icy blues, red shifts with pink mesh paneling, and stripes by the boatload. "We're taking you on a surf trip!" Weiland exclaimed backstage. "We have prints that we've been slaving over for months, a lot of textures, unusual combinations, a lot of mixing, but we're also trying to be cohesive." Brad Goreski, Johnny Weir, Mickey Boardman, and every downtown boy and girl came out for the final show of the weekend to celebrate these rising stars. The best is yet to come for these two!
The deserts of California, tinged with touches of modern Japanese flair, sprang to life in Jeremy Laing’s Spring 2012 collection. Inspired by western Wabi-sabi, the Japanese concept of beauty and decay, Laing produced an array of very light and flowy, partially sun-bleached and sun-faded pieces that channeled “a ghost wandering through a day in the desert.” Laing succeeds when light and flowy meets the structure of engineered and technical linens, which produced a masterfully sophisticated collection of kimonos, tunics, vests, dresses—and everything in between. The effect? Tranquil and decidedly zen.